Kanchanaburi - The Death Railway

Kanchanaburi

Bridge over River Kwai

The Van to Kanchanaburi from Ayutthaya was around 3 hours and costed 400 Baht (around Rs. 1000/-) We were a Mother-daughter couple from New Zealand and one more lady who joined us. I was staying at a hotel called Baan Suk Soi 5 which was away from the city and in the evening I went to the Skywalk at the river and then further into the river front area near the Bridge over River Kwai, where I hired a motorcycle form OK Bike rental. It was run by a pleasant Chinese lady and costed around 700 Baht for 2 days which is Rs. 850/- per day.  

River Kwai Bridge and War Cemetery 

War Cemetery

The River Kwai bridge was a little ahead and had lot of shops leading to it. I found out that there was a sound and light show which happens annually and I was there at the right time of the year! All preparations were on for the show which was to start the next day.  

Kanchanaburi is a pleasant town with a population of 25000 and gets many tourists due to its history. It was the location where the Death Railway connecting Thailand to Burma was built by the invading Japanese. This was commemorated by the famous book and movie which was made subsequently called Bridge over River Kwai.  Almost half of the prisoners working on the project died from disease, maltreatment or accidents. 

Th Kanchanaburi War Cemetery is the main prisoner of war (POW) cemetery for victims of Japanese imprisonment while building the Burma Railway. There are 6,858 POWs buried there, mostly British, Australian, and Dutch. This Cemetery is maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission.

Beside the Cemetery is The Thailand–Burma Railway Centre which is privately funded. It is housed in the former headquarters of the Imperial Japanese Army which was constructed by prisoners of war and Asian forced laborers.

Erewan Falls and Hellfire Pass

Konyu Cutting

The next day, I left early with the bike to visit the Erawan falls which is in the Erawan National Park and the  Hellfire Pass which is the actual Thai-Burma Death Railway and there is a museum and gallery there. Both of these are around 90 Kms from the city and takes around 1 Hour 20 Min. 

Hellfire Pass, known by the Japanese as Konyu Cutting is the name of a railway cutting on the former Burma Railway in Thailand, which was built with forced labor during World War II. More than 250,000 Southeast Asian civilians and 12,000 Allied soldiers built the railway line, including Hellfire Pass. Due to the harsh conditions, there was heavy loss of life during construction. It was called Hellfire Pass because the sight of emaciated prisoners laboring by burning torchlight resembled a scene from Hell. The Museum was built by the Office of Australian War Graves and as

Erewan Falls

part of the experience, one can walk through the cutting itself and along a section of the former railway track bed. It was a somber experience walking through the section.

The Erawan falls one of the most popular falls in the country and is pretty impressive. It has seven levels with emerald green ponds at each level. The views are picturesque and one can swim at various spots. It was the one of the prettiest waterfalls that I had ever seen and the site pretty well managed with good infrastructure and marked paths. The road to the National Park was also very beautiful and along the river with restaurants and resorts along the way where I stopped for lunch in one of the picturesque spots. The trick to visit these places is to start early before the crowds start coming in.  

Pyrotechnic show

Pyrotechnic Show

In the evening after I returned, went to the River Kwai bridge. Managed to get a seat to the show which was spectacular with pyrotechnics displays and enactment of the wartime bombing of the bridge. It was worth all the hype and preparations.

After spending a few days in Kanchanaburi, it was time to return back to Bangkok and catch the flight back to Bangalore.

Ayutthaya - Capital City

An Ancient Capital

Ayutthaya was the capital of the Kingdom of Siam from 1350 to 1767. It became an independent kingdom in Thailand after the fall of the Angkor kings. Previous to this the Sukhothaya kings were the rulers from further North. The city was destroyed by the Burmese in 1767, but its ruins are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The capital then moved to Bangkok under the Ratthanosan dynasty. 

After returning back from Cambodia to Bangkok, I decided to explore Ayutthaya and from there go to Kanchanburi which became famous in world world 2 for its death railway and the famous bridge over River Kwai.

Ayutthaya is about an hour's train journey from the Don Mueng airport where I was to land. I boarded the train and reached Ayutthaya late in the night and I checked into a guesthouse called Siri Guesthouse. Run by a local family, it was spotlessly clean and very near to the city attractions. 

Exploration Plan

The historical city which is a world heritage site is spread around 12 square Kms around the Phraya Chaya river. While the palace is in ruins, the wats which were built in the Khymer style are spread around and gives a good insight into the times. 

Day 1 plan was to go to the Wats near the erstwhile Palace grounds starting with Wat Phra Si Sanphet and Monglon Bophit which is adjoining it.. Day 2,  I spent time mainly in Wat Ratchaburana and Mahathat. Day 3, I covered the temples around the river and the main Museum.

The best way to move around is by bicycle and to beat the heat, I used to start early around 0630 am. The temples all open by 8, so the trick is to complete seeing them before 11 am when the heat and the crowd starts coming in. Tourist buses ply in from Bangkok and the sites become very busy later in the day.

Prang of Wat Phutthaisawan

The Ratchaburana gold collection in the museum is a must see and gives an idea of the designs and lifestyle of the kings during this period. These are items found in the Wat crypts where the cremated remains of the kings used to be buried along with their belongings. 

Near the guest house are various restaurants and night market where local street food is available. 

Buddhist Temple Architecture

The temple architecture of the Ayutthaya kings were inspired from the Khmers who were the previous Empire builders from Cambodia. The main tower is called a Prang which is cone conical shaped with a broad base getting narrower towards the top and an entrance on one side. Prangs originate from Khmer architecture and the best known prang of Thailand is probably the main prang of the Wat Arun, one of Bangkok’s most famous landmarks on the Chao Phraya river.

Wat Phra Si Sanphet

Three Chedis of Wat Phra Sri Sanphet

Completed in 1448 and situated within the royal Palace grounds, Wat Phra Sri Sanphet was the royal monastery and therefore no monks were allowed to reside. The temple served to conduct ceremonies within the royal court, such as the ritual to drink an oath of allegiance. 

At the heart of the temple, there are three Ceylonese (bell-shaped) Chedis or pagodas side by side situated on rectangular platforms. It is believed that these platforms were the base of royal houses in the Ayutthaya period.

Wat Monglon Bophit

This temple lies adjacent to Wat Phra Si Sanphet and the main feature is a large bronze (gilded) Buddha image, named Phra Mongkhon Bophit. It is is one of the largest bronze Buddha images in Thailand and measures 9.5 meters across the lap and has a height including the pedestal of 17 meters. The Buddha image is seated in the position of Subduing Mara. Sculpted in 1538 A.D, this statue was later covered by gold leaf. 

Wat Ratchaburana

Prang of Wat Ratchaburana

The most popular of all the temples, it has one of the best preserved central tower (prang) in Ayutthaya and housed some of the greatest treasures uncovered in the city. 

In 1957 the temple's crypt was looted of a large number of Buddha images and gold artifacts. The thieves were later caught and some of the treasures were recovered and are on display at the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum nearby. 

Subsequently, archaeologists discovered three levels in a crypt within the tower: the first covered in murals and containing tablets from commoners, the second with items from the royal family including golden tablets, and the third where there would've been relics of Buddha. Further excavations of the crypt have uncovered many more rare Buddha images and other priceless objects.

Wat Mahathat

Buddha Status entangled in roots

Wat Mahathat was built on the edge of Ayutthaya's Royal Palace and was one of the capital's most important temples, used by kings and other senior officials. Buddha's relics would've been housed, along with other important treasures of the kingdom. And important royal ceremonies and celebrations would've been held at the temple. The Prang or central tower is however destroyed and the complex is mainly in ruins.

Paintings at Wat Choeng Tha

In the southeast corner of the temple complex, one can find one of the most iconic images of Ayutthaya - the head of a Buddha statue embraced by the roots of a tree, which are entwined around it.

There are other notable temples worth visiting which are on the other side of the river. Wat Phutthaisawan is one of the temples that survived the Burmese destruction during the collapse of Ayutthaya in 1767, so the temple remains in a good condition and a complete Prang can be seen. The other temple is Wat Chaiwatthanaram which has got striking ruins and is a must see. 

Oyster Pancake

Some ancient paintings can be seen at the sermon hall of Wat Choeng Tha. 

Food

Near the Guesthouse were markets where street food is available. One of the dishes I tried here are the Oyster Pan cakes which was being made by a street vendor. This is a famous Teochew food from China and can be found in many places in Thailand and in South East Asia. Its a must try street found where ever available. 

Sihanoukville and the Islands

Sihanoukville 

The train station of Sihanoukville is near the port and one can see the port activities as it comes to the last stop. From there, it was a short Tuk Tuk ride to the hotel.

Located in Cambodia's southwestern coastal region, Sihanoukville is the country's largest port city, tourist destination and foreign trade hub. At one time it was a sleepy town frequented by western back packers. Beginning 2013, Chinese capital began to flow into Sihanoukville, driving a boom in gaming-related sectors and construction. Cambodia's lax financial policies and the legalization of its gaming industry attracted many Chinese investors. 

Sokha Beach in Sihanoukville

Today Sihanoukville is bursting with frenetic building activity with new buildings popping up at every corner. The city is almost a Chinese metropolis with boards and neon signs written in Mandarin everywhere. Hotels, casinos and KTVs sprout at every corner which are run, operated and patronized by the Chinese.

Walking through the city, I could see that the city is well designed with broad paved sidewalks along with a cycle track, underground electric cables and well defined roads all leading up to the Two Lions round about and culminating in the white sand beaches in the south . India can learn on how to build cities at this place and scale. The city is still trying to fix the garbage collection and street dogs can be seen rummaging through the garbage.

The city is peppered with mainly Chinese and Cambodian restaurants but there are also other cuisines including Indonesian, and Bangladeshi run Indian restaurants. I noticed many Indonesian immigrants and restaurants in the area I stayed in around Trimulia towers.

The dark side to Sihanoukville

City view from Wat Leu Pagoda area 

The influx of Chinese nationals has led to increased incidents of public disturbances and crimes among Chinese individuals. The city has a notorious reputation for criminal activity and reports of suspicious deaths, violence and scam rings continue to emerge. There is a human trafficking epidemic in which workers are forced to ensnare overseas victims in online fraud schemes. Operators of these scamming networks recruit unwitting workers from across Asia, often with the promise of well-paying tech jobs, and then force them to attempt to scam victims online while living in slave like conditions.

Thousands of people, mostly foreign nationals, had found themselves trapped in large compounds and forced to work after being kidnapped, sold, trafficked, or tricked into accepting jobs in Cambodia. These large compounds are so-called online investment zones which are under closed-off management, meaning they are sealed off from outsiders. Some of the zones are even guarded by military police, which makes it difficult for the local police to conduct any search or investigation inside

Koh Rong Islands

Speed Boat

There are two main Islands off Sihanoukville which are popular destinations, Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem. Koh Rong is the larger of the two islands covering around 80 Sq Kms. I chose to go to Koh Rong to slow down the pace of my travel for a few days. After that it would be back to Pnom Penh. There are a few speed boat companies that one can chose from and I decided to go with GTVC which is a fast speed boat and a reliable company. The departure pier is near the port. 

The speed boat from Sihanoukville took around 45 minutes and docked in at the Long set Pier from where the more secluded hotels and beaches could be accessed. The Koh Rong pier further south was where all the hostels and party set were. I checked in at Nice beach Bungalow which is in Coconut beach area towards the east of the Island. From here you can see the distant skyscrapers of Sihanoukville. Nice beach bungalow is run by a local family and Dina who is in charge is a sweet lady and it was a pleasure enjoying their hospitality over the next few days.

Exploring the Island

Sun Rise

The next day, there was an amazing sun rise above the distant skyscrapers from the beach, post which I hired a bike and went around to explore the island. A 20 kms concrete road ran around the North to the West and South of the Island (something India can learn from as this requires an initial investment but is low maintenance) and one could go all the way upto the Koh Rong pier in the south. The road from there to Long Set was however was broken, so one couldn't do a full circle. All along I could see signs of change as a big development plan along with an airport with Chinese investment was coming. This would change the Island from the quiet beach Paradise that it is today, that is the price of development.

At the extreme north, there is an estuary and mangroves and one can go Kayaking through the backwaters. Lily's riverhouse has a wonderful breakfast and Kayaks can be hired from there.

Long Beach Sunset

The best place to watch the sunset is from Long beach on the west side of the Island and Soksan Natura Beach Resort restaurant. This area is a cove, so there are no waves and ideal for swimming. I spent most of my time here during the days I was here, relaxing on the white sand beach and reading a book. The island is an undiscovered and unspoilt gem and I was fortunate to have spent time here before it inevitably changes beyond recognition in the next few years.

Soon, it was time to say goodbye to the island and get back to Phnom Penh from where I would be flying into Bangkok and traveling to Ayutthaya, the erstwhile capital of the Thai kingdom.

Kampot and Kep

Kampot

Kampot is a French Colonial town with a pleasing waterfront promenade and a lazy lifestyle filled with cafes and restaurants located in its jaded French Colonial buildings. The small town has a grid structure layout with large roundabouts. The Praek Tuek Chhu River further upstream breaks into a loop where one can take Kayaks out for a ride.

By the Riverside in Kampot

I spent a few days here and used it as a base to visit the Bokor National park and the seaside town of Kep. Some great places for local Khmer food are Lemongrass Bistro and Vanna restaurant and bar.

I noticed quite a number of muslims in Kampot. Muslims are around 1-2% of the population of Cambodia and are mainly of Cham origin.

Chams were the inhabitants of the medieval Hindu kingdom of Champa, located on the coast of central Vietnam. Many, particularly among the elite, converted to Islam as the Muslim faith spread eastward into island and peninsular South-East Asia. After the Khmer deserted Angkor, the imperial capital of Cambodia, in the fifteenth century, the Vietnamese, expanded south and gradually conquered the Champa principalities. Preferring to live among the Hinduized Buddhist Khmer rather than the Sinicized or Confucianized Vietnamese, many Cham abandoned Champa after the seventeenth century and migrated to Cambodia.

Bokor National Park

Bokor National Park is a beautiful ride up in the hills and one can feel the clouds slowly roll in as you go up. This was a place for the French to go to when the heat in the plains got oppressive. Today locals go out in hordes during holidays to breathe in the cool air. I started early and was able to beat the crowds. At the top there is an unremarkable lake and waterfall. What is noticeable however is the construction of hotels and a Casino by Chinese speculators who have taken over parts of the National Park. It cannot be good for the country and hope that better sense will prevail and a balance between nature and development will be achieved by the country and its political leaders

Kep

Kep Crab Sculpture

Kep is a sea side town and lies in all its abandoned splendour. Like a ghost town it awaits it's past patrons while local party goers hit the town over the weekends. At one time it was the playground of the rich before Pol Pot drove away all the residents and even today you can see abandoned villas and sprawling layouts snapped up by Chinese buyers and lying bare waiting for prosperity to return.

High above the salt flats, is the Wat Samathi Pagoda from where one can see miles away into the sprawling landscape and the Ocean. There was construction happening at a furious pace and I met a couple of monks who said there's going to be a meditation center where people could come for short time meditation courses.

 

Fresh Crab at Magic Carb

Above the town, the hills are part of the Kep National park and one can take a walk or ride a bicycle or Motorcycle around a concrete path built for tourists. Hopefully thanks to the park, the hills will be kept away from speculators and construction activity as has happened to many such sea side towns.

 The best place to have a magic plate of crabs cooked in Kampot green pepper with a beer on the table is the Magic Crab restaurant. It's located just beside the landing dock where the fishing trawlers come in early morning to sell baskets of blue crabs to the local vendors.

Phnom Penh

First Impressions

Independence Monument

Phnom Penh is neatly organized in grids and the highlight is the riverfront in front of the Palace which has a nice walkway. The river Tonle Sap meets the Mekong here just ahead of the Palace area. There are many hotels in the area and the bars and nightlife areas are concentrated here. 

Highlights of the city are a visit to the Palace, the Genocide museum and 'Factory Phnom Penh' which is a mixed use IT and creative hub a little away from the central areas. 

The riverfront and the areas around the Independence Monument are the best places to stay. There are good spaces to walk around and the  Public parks reminded me of Vietnam. There is no honking, traffic is busy but orderly and the city is clean and well maintained.

I happened to be there during the 3 days water festival and I extended my stay for a day to be able to see the first day of festivities. The Water festival is a holiday for Cambodians and is their biggest celebration. 

Food and entertainment 

Apsara Dance

The city is dotted with Cafes, cuisines from all over the world, fine French restaurants and surprisingly lots of top quality Japanese restaurants. The traditional Khmer meals I had were stir fried beef with red tree ants at the Banteay Srey Restaurant and Fish Amok coconut curry at Romdeng restaurant. I also couldn't resist going for a Sushi spread and Kimchi fried rice from a restaurant called SaKaNa LaB. I also tried a Kannoko 3-yrs Mugi Shochu which was excellent. Sochu is a Japanese spirit made from barley or wheat that is aged in oak barrels and has a rich, mellow flavor.

Beer is cheap and publicly available like Thailand and Laos unlike Indonesia where it was not easily accessible.

Good bars and entertainment options are near Bassac street and the Neak Banh Teuk Park has good public music performances and traditional dances which I enjoyed.

Museum and Palace

Palace

The National museum is well organized and has a collection of Pre-Khmer, Khmer and post Khmer artefacts, statues and bronze images. The building showcases the traditional Khmer architecture with lions and Nagas at the entrance and slender Naga spires. 

Highlights are some exceptional sandstone sculptures, pediments and wood pieces from all the periods.

Ramayana Painting

The Palace tour is a must see in Phnom Penh and is divided into 2 sections. One section is the Throne Hall and the different Pavilions and the other section is the Silver Pagoda which includes the Royal temple Wat Preah Keo and another "Emerald Buddha" of Cambodia plus a near life size Maitreya Buddha encrusted with 9500 plus diamonds. The floor of the Silver Pagoda is carpeted, but there is a section where one can see the silver tiles which have been used to cover the floor. 

Around the Silver Pagoda section wall are exquisite paintings of Ramayana (Reamkar in Cambodia) although these have started fading away in many areas. 

The architecture of the Palace is very pleasing and has been inspired from the Thai Royal palace in Bangkok with beautiful Naga spires, Brahma faces, Kinnaras and Garudas. 

Water Festival

Illuminated Floats

I happened to be there when the Cambodian Water Festival called Bon Om Touk was starting which was a happy coincidence!  This festival is celebrated for 3 days in late October or early November after the rainy season is over. The Royal Boat Race takes place on the first day after which large lanterns are released and prayers of peace are given to Preah Mae Kongkea or the Goddess Ganga. She is the Khmer goddess and  guardian deity of the water and revered by the Cambodian people. Illuminated floats called "Bondet Bratib" are launched. 

People make "Loy Kantong" lanterns from ba‌‌nana trees, decorate them with flowers and put some food on them to float in the river. This is similar to "Loy Krathong" in Thailand and Laos and "Boita Bandana" in Odisha, India which happens at the same time. The Boita Bandana which is a traditional maritime and naval festival from Odisha may have been one of the influences for these festivals. Khmer and Javanese Hindu Brahmin priests who conduct these ceremonies trace their religious linage back to Utkala Brahmins of Odisha.

Boat Races

Boita Bandāna is a celebrated annually throughout Odisha, India. The name means "to float ritual boats and worshipping with lighted lamp" and comes from the tradition of making decorated boats, which are then floated on a river as a symbolic gesture of their ancestors' voyage. 

It takes place in Kartik Purnima which is the full moon day in the month Kartika in the traditional Odia calendar which usually falls in the month of November. The festival is a celebrated to mark the commemoration on the day when Sadhabas (ancient Odia mariner merchants) would set sail to distant lands of mainland and insular Southeast Asia and Sri Lanka for trade and cultural exchange.

I stayed back a day to watch the first day of the festival in Phnom Penh. Host of people descended on the banks to watch the boats compete against each other. Colorful illuminated floats were on the river and small Loy Kantongs were released on the river by devotees. It was a day of festivities  for the whole country and the atmosphere reminded me of the Melas and fairs in India. 

Meeting an Indian Entrepreneur

I met up with an Indian born Entrepreneur for lunch in Phnom Penh to understand the local business environment. She told me that it is quite easy for foreigners to own businesses as you don't need a local partner. The capital is well connected to other cities in South East Asia. English is widely spoken in business and the economy is doing well especially in construction. I had noticed that there were many Indians in Cambodia and she confirmed that Indians are active in Pharmaceuticals, tourism and manufacturing industries.

There is an increasing class of well to do locals who frequent the cafes and restaurants and Phnom Penh is a growing city with a still laid back vibe which is what I also noticed over the next few days.

Siem Reap and Angkor Wat

Immigration

I decided to enter Cambodia by road from Thailand as I was not sure how many days I would be there and wanted the flexibility of coming back to Thailand in case I had time to spare. I booked the bus through 12go and the bus company was Giant Ibis transport which turned out to be the right choice as it was very comfortable. Didn't feel the 8 hours it took for the ride. 

The immigration was a little choppy. Though I had an evisa, not too many people from India came by land. The bus coordinator did tell me that there would be questions for Indians, Pakistanis and other South Asians about availability of money and I needed a return flight ticket to get through the land route. I decided to take my chances and thought would book a return flight on the spot if asked to do so. The immigration officer asked me to show that I had enough cash for the visit. Luckily I had a wad of dollars and the officer took a photo and sent it to some higher up before he waived me through.  

Siem Reap

Arriving in Siem Reap, I checked in to the Yashodarapura residence, an upmarket hotel located about 5 Kms from the temples of Angkor Wat. The reception was welcoming and efficient. There was breakfast in the mornings and a nice pool which I was hoping to use.

Cambodian Hotpot

In the evening, I stepped out for dinner and chanced upon a restaurant nearby called Angkor BBQ/Srey Khouch which was quite busy. It turned out to be an all you can eat seafood hotpot and grill restaurant. Its popular in Cambodia and called  phnom pleung (hill of fire), which is cook-your-own meat over a personal barbecue and soup chhnang dei (cook-your-own soup in a clay pot).  I was shocked by the price which was all inclusive 7$. There were an assortment of sea food from Kalamari, shrimps, Octopus, fish to cut meats and assortment of vegetables for the hot pot. Apart from that there was a buffet spread along with desserts. 

The next day was to buy a driver's license and get oriented, so I went for a walk to the center of town. The town is neatly laid out in a grid with the river flowing on the East. There are beautiful cafes and restaurants. The French influence can be seen in the buildings and cafes. 

Angkor Museum

Before visiting the temples, I spent half a day at the Angkor museum in town. It's worth it as it gives a comprehensive overview into the different Khmer periods, kings, architecture and culture. It's a well organized museum and covers the main periods of Khmer, from Pre-Angkorian (includes Fu-Nan or Phnom and Chen-La periods), Angkorian (includes Kulen, Baphuon, Angkor Wat and Bayon) and post Angkorian periods. 

Temple visit plan

I bought a 3 day Angkor ticket from the official website and planned to join group tours over 2 days to visit the temples. On day 3, I would explore on my own based on how the 1st two days went.

Day 1 and 2

Since there was possibility of rain, I decided to visit the main two temple complexes Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom the next day and cover the rest of the temples on day 1. 

These included Banteay Srei, Pre-Rup and East Mebon temples which came before Angkor Wat. We also explored Preah Khan and Ta Som which were temples from the Bayon period that followed soon after Angkor Wat.

Tour Guide

We were 4 people on the tour, a mother and daughter of Polish origin from England, a South Korean and myself.  Our guide for the tour was a man named Pin Poch. He kept us engaged by telling us stories about his childhood when Vietnam had intervened and pushed out the Pol Pot regime, Cambodian customs and present political disposition. 

The next day was dedicated to the main Angkor Wat temple and the Angkor Thom Complex. Angkor Thom came after Angkor Wat during the Buddhist period and included Bayon and Ta Prohm temples. Ta Prohm is famously known as Tomb Raider temple (after the movie). 

We were a total of 10 people and included an assortment of 3 young men from Mauritius, 2 Australians, 1 French and 1 Dutch lady and 2 guys from Europe. One of the Australians was of South Indian ethnicity who told me he was unhappy that the guide didn't mention that in fact it was the Cholas from India who had built Angkor Wat! 

Day 3 and 4

On the 3rd day, I hired a bike and explored a group of temples 15 Kms South East of the main group in the 9th century city of Hariharalaya (Preah Ko and Bakong temples) and Prasath Beng Mealea, 40 Kms East built during the time of Angkor Wat. The round about route from the city to the Bakong temples, Prasath Beng Mealea and back is a pleasant ride of about 116 kms  

One of the best ways to feel the size of the Angkor kingdom is to drive around Angkor Wat and Thom which is what I did on day 4. The route is about 26 Kms and it can also be a way to see the temples, if one is not using a tour company (See Figure).

Overall, the scale and size of the ruins and the grand conception of the city by the Khymer is impressive and staggering. It was the largest city of its time and the accomplishments of the Khymer kings truly marked it as a world heritage site. The site is also well managed with top notch tourist infrastructure and ticketing system. Tickets are priced at a level that only the serious tourist can access the site and was a complete contrast in the way Hampi, another world heritage site in Karnataka and covering a similar area is managed. India has to learn a lot on how to manage and preserve our heritage and create a sustainable tourist infrastructure.

Hariharalaya - 9th Century

Preak Ko

Jayavarman II established first Angkor capital at Hariharalaya in the 9th century 1 5 Kms South East of Angkor Wat. Preak Ko was the first temple to be built and is a shiva temple dedicated to Jayavarman II and his father and Grandfather. It is in a dilapidated condition, but has some fine lintel carvings. 

Bakong

Bakong is an impressive stepped pyramid and reminded me of Prambanam and Borobodur. It is the first temple to be built using sandstone while the satellite temples are made of brick. The pyramid has 5 levels and the top tower was built later in the style of Angkor Wat. This is a temple worth visiting and since it's off the track, it's not very crowded. When I went, I saw a few tourists doing sketches of the brick temples in their sketch pads.

The pre Angkor Wat temples primarily used Laterite, brick, stucco and the frames and lintels used sandstone. These are primarily Shiva temples but have Indra and Vishnu related carvings. During the Angkor Wat period from 1100 AD, sandstones began to be used for the entire temple instead of brick and stucco. 

Yashodharapura - End of 9th Century onwards

Yashodharapura was founded by Yasovarman or the Leper king who moved his capital from Hariharalaya. He built the East Baray reservoir which is now dry and built temples on it. This along with West Baray which is still filled up and on which Angkor Wat stands are some of the largest hand cut water reservoirs on earth. 

East Mebon, Pre-Rup

Pre-Rup

East Mebon

East Mebon and Pre-Rup temples stand on what was an artificial island at the center of the now dry East Baray reservoir. East Mebon has 3 tiers and free standing elephants at the corners with a central tower and 4 small corner towers at the top. The elephants and carvings are excellent. 

Banteay Srei

Similarly Pre-Rup has 3 step tiers with 5 towers at the top. Funerals were conducted in this temple and these towers had slits in the bricks for the smoke to come out. Pre-rup has extensive Laterite and brick and in the evening Sun, it glows like a jewel.

Banteay Srei

Banteay Sri is the prettiest of all temples and most well preserved. It is made from red sandstone and the elaborate walls and lintel carvings are intact. It was built in the 10th century and is a jewel of Khmer art.

Angkor Wat and Beng Mealea -  Suryavarman II

Angkor Wat

Suryavarman II was the first king who built temples dedicated to Vishnu. His enduring creation was building Angkor Wat, the  largest religious structure in the world, now a world heritage site. It was constructed in 1150 CE as a Hindu temple dedicated to Vishnu and later transformed into a Buddhist temple. The size of the temple complex with its Central Towers, four sided galleries filled with bas reliefs and the encircled moat is mind boggling. I visited the complex twice in 3 days to be able to do justice to it. Angkor Wat is a proud representation of Cambodia and is depicted in its National Flag.

Prasath Beng Mealea

Angkor comes from the Sanskrit word Nagara meaning city and the original name is Vrah Vishnuloka which means abode of Lord Vishnu. Unlike most temples which face East, he temples face west because Vishnu is the Lord of the West. Later during Jayavarman VII period when Angkor Thom was established, it became a Buddhist temple and continued to be so till its rediscovery by the world

Prasath Beng Mealea is another fascinating temple during this period and a must see. 40 Kms East of the city, It's a huge temple complex and completely in ruins with nature taking over the complex. It is one of the most fascinating sites that I have ever visited.

Angkor Thom - Late 12th century

Bayon Temple

Angkor Thom which was founded by Jayavarman VII came after Angkor Wat and was the last and most enduring capital city of the Khmer empire. Jayavarman was the first king devoted to Buddhism and built the Bayon temple which is built in "Baroque style" compared to the "classical style" of Angkor Wat. Angkor Thom was sacked by the Ayutthaya kingdom after which the capital shifted to Phnom Penh. The entrance gateways to the city are impressive and each entrance has a causeway over the moat with devas and asuras churning the Ocean with Nagas.

Ta Prohm

Outside the Angkor Thom complex, there are a few notable temples to see of this period. Starting in the south is the Ta Prohm temple which is famously known as the Angelina Jolie temple. It's a Bayon style Buddhist temple and famous for its large ficus trees that have grown over the temples and walls. Looking at them I was reminded of the poem Ozymandias and how time can conquer even the greatest builders and bring everything back to dust.

Further north to the East is Ta Som which is famous for its four Gopurams with Bayon style faces and a stranger fig that has been taken over one of the Gopuras. The temple is largely unrestored. 

Prasat Preah Khan

Walkway to Neak Pean

Going westwards from Ta Som,  Neak Pean is a Mahayana Buddhist temple is in the middle of a massive tank called Baray and one has to go over a newly laid bridge to reach it. The temple is shaped like a coiled snake. It is one of the many hospitals that Jayavarman VII built and is based on the ancient Hindu belief of balance between Water, Earth, Fire and Wind. Originally, four sculptures stood on the floor of the lake. The only statue that remains is that of a horse representing Avalokitesvara.

Further west is Prasat Preah Khan . It was built on the site of Jayavarman VII's victory over the invading Chams in 1191. The temple is flat in design, with a basic plan of successive rectangular galleries around a Buddhist sanctuary surrounded by Hindu satellite temples. Like Ta Prohm, Preah Khan has been left largely unrestored, with numerous trees growing among the ruins. Highlights of the temple include Garudas holding Nagas on the outer walls, a hall of dancers and a two-storeyed structure with round columns which was the Granary.

Food and Shopping

Beef Lok Lak

I frequented the Angkor BBQ/Srey Khouch as I found it great value for money.  Other cafes and restaurants I explored were Crane which is a cute cafe with excellent Kombucha and Golden Pumpkin restaurant for local Khmer dishes.

Along the river behind the hotel, there is a walkway where one can sample local street food. I ran across a young man who started a roadside Cafe with coffee equipment which he ordered online from China. He was in college and then dropped out to start this. It's called Street Slow Bar. Excellent Coffee for a dollar. 

Street Slow Bar

The bars are all clustered around Pub Street which comes alive in the evenings. 

For shopping, instead of buying industrial souvenirs made in China, I went for a unique collection from a store called Jayavarman art. The store is located in a beautiful place Khmer house surrounded by a tropical garden. They have realistic replicas and items made from paper mache and I bought a Shiva head replica from the Angkor era. These are light as well as durable.

Travel to Phnom Penh 

After spending almost a week in Seam Reap, I boarded a bus at 7 am to Phnom Penh. There are many transport companies and I chose Larryta travels which has a good and safe reputation. The bus took around 5 1/2 hours and the drive was smooth.