Ayutthaya - Capital City

An Ancient Capital

Ayutthaya was the capital of the Kingdom of Siam from 1350 to 1767. It became an independent kingdom in Thailand after the fall of the Angkor kings. Previous to this the Sukhothaya kings were the rulers from further North. The city was destroyed by the Burmese in 1767, but its ruins are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The capital then moved to Bangkok under the Ratthanosan dynasty. 

After returning back from Cambodia to Bangkok, I decided to explore Ayutthaya and from there go to Kanchanburi which became famous in world world 2 for its death railway and the famous bridge over River Kwai.

Ayutthaya is about an hour's train journey from the Don Mueng airport where I was to land. I boarded the train and reached Ayutthaya late in the night and I checked into a guesthouse called Siri Guesthouse. Run by a local family, it was spotlessly clean and very near to the city attractions. 

Exploration Plan

The historical city which is a world heritage site is spread around 12 square Kms around the Phraya Chaya river. While the palace is in ruins, the wats which were built in the Khymer style are spread around and gives a good insight into the times. 

Day 1 plan was to go to the Wats near the erstwhile Palace grounds starting with Wat Phra Si Sanphet and Monglon Bophit which is adjoining it.. Day 2,  I spent time mainly in Wat Ratchaburana and Mahathat. Day 3, I covered the temples around the river and the main Museum.

The best way to move around is by bicycle and to beat the heat, I used to start early around 0630 am. The temples all open by 8, so the trick is to complete seeing them before 11 am when the heat and the crowd starts coming in. Tourist buses ply in from Bangkok and the sites become very busy later in the day.

Prang of Wat Phutthaisawan

The Ratchaburana gold collection in the museum is a must see and gives an idea of the designs and lifestyle of the kings during this period. These are items found in the Wat crypts where the cremated remains of the kings used to be buried along with their belongings. 

Near the guest house are various restaurants and night market where local street food is available. 

Buddhist Temple Architecture

The temple architecture of the Ayutthaya kings were inspired from the Khmers who were the previous Empire builders from Cambodia. The main tower is called a Prang which is cone conical shaped with a broad base getting narrower towards the top and an entrance on one side. Prangs originate from Khmer architecture and the best known prang of Thailand is probably the main prang of the Wat Arun, one of Bangkok’s most famous landmarks on the Chao Phraya river.

Wat Phra Si Sanphet

Three Chedis of Wat Phra Sri Sanphet

Completed in 1448 and situated within the royal Palace grounds, Wat Phra Sri Sanphet was the royal monastery and therefore no monks were allowed to reside. The temple served to conduct ceremonies within the royal court, such as the ritual to drink an oath of allegiance. 

At the heart of the temple, there are three Ceylonese (bell-shaped) Chedis or pagodas side by side situated on rectangular platforms. It is believed that these platforms were the base of royal houses in the Ayutthaya period.

Wat Monglon Bophit

This temple lies adjacent to Wat Phra Si Sanphet and the main feature is a large bronze (gilded) Buddha image, named Phra Mongkhon Bophit. It is is one of the largest bronze Buddha images in Thailand and measures 9.5 meters across the lap and has a height including the pedestal of 17 meters. The Buddha image is seated in the position of Subduing Mara. Sculpted in 1538 A.D, this statue was later covered by gold leaf. 

Wat Ratchaburana

Prang of Wat Ratchaburana

The most popular of all the temples, it has one of the best preserved central tower (prang) in Ayutthaya and housed some of the greatest treasures uncovered in the city. 

In 1957 the temple's crypt was looted of a large number of Buddha images and gold artifacts. The thieves were later caught and some of the treasures were recovered and are on display at the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum nearby. 

Subsequently, archaeologists discovered three levels in a crypt within the tower: the first covered in murals and containing tablets from commoners, the second with items from the royal family including golden tablets, and the third where there would've been relics of Buddha. Further excavations of the crypt have uncovered many more rare Buddha images and other priceless objects.

Wat Mahathat

Buddha Status entangled in roots

Wat Mahathat was built on the edge of Ayutthaya's Royal Palace and was one of the capital's most important temples, used by kings and other senior officials. Buddha's relics would've been housed, along with other important treasures of the kingdom. And important royal ceremonies and celebrations would've been held at the temple. The Prang or central tower is however destroyed and the complex is mainly in ruins.

Paintings at Wat Choeng Tha

In the southeast corner of the temple complex, one can find one of the most iconic images of Ayutthaya - the head of a Buddha statue embraced by the roots of a tree, which are entwined around it.

There are other notable temples worth visiting which are on the other side of the river. Wat Phutthaisawan is one of the temples that survived the Burmese destruction during the collapse of Ayutthaya in 1767, so the temple remains in a good condition and a complete Prang can be seen. The other temple is Wat Chaiwatthanaram which has got striking ruins and is a must see. 

Oyster Pancake

Some ancient paintings can be seen at the sermon hall of Wat Choeng Tha. 

Food

Near the Guesthouse were markets where street food is available. One of the dishes I tried here are the Oyster Pan cakes which was being made by a street vendor. This is a famous Teochew food from China and can be found in many places in Thailand and in South East Asia. Its a must try street found where ever available.