Phnom Penh

First Impressions

Independence Monument

Phnom Penh is neatly organized in grids and the highlight is the riverfront in front of the Palace which has a nice walkway. The river Tonle Sap meets the Mekong here just ahead of the Palace area. There are many hotels in the area and the bars and nightlife areas are concentrated here. 

Highlights of the city are a visit to the Palace, the Genocide museum and 'Factory Phnom Penh' which is a mixed use IT and creative hub a little away from the central areas. 

The riverfront and the areas around the Independence Monument are the best places to stay. There are good spaces to walk around and the  Public parks reminded me of Vietnam. There is no honking, traffic is busy but orderly and the city is clean and well maintained.

I happened to be there during the 3 days water festival and I extended my stay for a day to be able to see the first day of festivities. The Water festival is a holiday for Cambodians and is their biggest celebration. 

Food and entertainment 

Apsara Dance

The city is dotted with Cafes, cuisines from all over the world, fine French restaurants and surprisingly lots of top quality Japanese restaurants. The traditional Khmer meals I had were stir fried beef with red tree ants at the Banteay Srey Restaurant and Fish Amok coconut curry at Romdeng restaurant. I also couldn't resist going for a Sushi spread and Kimchi fried rice from a restaurant called SaKaNa LaB. I also tried a Kannoko 3-yrs Mugi Shochu which was excellent. Sochu is a Japanese spirit made from barley or wheat that is aged in oak barrels and has a rich, mellow flavor.

Beer is cheap and publicly available like Thailand and Laos unlike Indonesia where it was not easily accessible.

Good bars and entertainment options are near Bassac street and the Neak Banh Teuk Park has good public music performances and traditional dances which I enjoyed.

Museum and Palace

Palace

The National museum is well organized and has a collection of Pre-Khmer, Khmer and post Khmer artefacts, statues and bronze images. The building showcases the traditional Khmer architecture with lions and Nagas at the entrance and slender Naga spires. 

Highlights are some exceptional sandstone sculptures, pediments and wood pieces from all the periods.

Ramayana Painting

The Palace tour is a must see in Phnom Penh and is divided into 2 sections. One section is the Throne Hall and the different Pavilions and the other section is the Silver Pagoda which includes the Royal temple Wat Preah Keo and another "Emerald Buddha" of Cambodia plus a near life size Maitreya Buddha encrusted with 9500 plus diamonds. The floor of the Silver Pagoda is carpeted, but there is a section where one can see the silver tiles which have been used to cover the floor. 

Around the Silver Pagoda section wall are exquisite paintings of Ramayana (Reamkar in Cambodia) although these have started fading away in many areas. 

The architecture of the Palace is very pleasing and has been inspired from the Thai Royal palace in Bangkok with beautiful Naga spires, Brahma faces, Kinnaras and Garudas. 

Water Festival

Illuminated Floats

I happened to be there when the Cambodian Water Festival called Bon Om Touk was starting which was a happy coincidence!  This festival is celebrated for 3 days in late October or early November after the rainy season is over. The Royal Boat Race takes place on the first day after which large lanterns are released and prayers of peace are given to Preah Mae Kongkea or the Goddess Ganga. She is the Khmer goddess and  guardian deity of the water and revered by the Cambodian people. Illuminated floats called "Bondet Bratib" are launched. 

People make "Loy Kantong" lanterns from ba‌‌nana trees, decorate them with flowers and put some food on them to float in the river. This is similar to "Loy Krathong" in Thailand and Laos and "Boita Bandana" in Odisha, India which happens at the same time. The Boita Bandana which is a traditional maritime and naval festival from Odisha may have been one of the influences for these festivals. Khmer and Javanese Hindu Brahmin priests who conduct these ceremonies trace their religious linage back to Utkala Brahmins of Odisha.

Boat Races

Boita Bandāna is a celebrated annually throughout Odisha, India. The name means "to float ritual boats and worshipping with lighted lamp" and comes from the tradition of making decorated boats, which are then floated on a river as a symbolic gesture of their ancestors' voyage. 

It takes place in Kartik Purnima which is the full moon day in the month Kartika in the traditional Odia calendar which usually falls in the month of November. The festival is a celebrated to mark the commemoration on the day when Sadhabas (ancient Odia mariner merchants) would set sail to distant lands of mainland and insular Southeast Asia and Sri Lanka for trade and cultural exchange.

I stayed back a day to watch the first day of the festival in Phnom Penh. Host of people descended on the banks to watch the boats compete against each other. Colorful illuminated floats were on the river and small Loy Kantongs were released on the river by devotees. It was a day of festivities  for the whole country and the atmosphere reminded me of the Melas and fairs in India. 

Meeting an Indian Entrepreneur

I met up with an Indian born Entrepreneur for lunch in Phnom Penh to understand the local business environment. She told me that it is quite easy for foreigners to own businesses as you don't need a local partner. The capital is well connected to other cities in South East Asia. English is widely spoken in business and the economy is doing well especially in construction. I had noticed that there were many Indians in Cambodia and she confirmed that Indians are active in Pharmaceuticals, tourism and manufacturing industries.

There is an increasing class of well to do locals who frequent the cafes and restaurants and Phnom Penh is a growing city with a still laid back vibe which is what I also noticed over the next few days.