A World Heritage City
Jan 2024
Luang Prabang is a small quaint town at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers.It was the royal capital of the country until 1975. The town has Laotian and French architecture with beautiful temples, traditional houses and colonial villas. At the square is a night market where you get wonderful street food and wares. Its a delightful place to wander around and the place is dotted with Cafes, restaurants and local food stalls.
A world Heritage site, the roads and building are well maintained and one can spend a few days just walking around the Wats and the cafes. On both sides of the town are the riverfront restaurants and residences. It is a pretty sight all around.
The next day, I had an early start. I walked around to the Wat May Souvannapoumaram, Wat Sensoukharam both of which were built in the 18th century, then went to the most important temple Wat Xiengthong which is near the confluence of the two rivers. Xiengthong means Golden City which was the name of Luang Prabang earlier. This Wat or temple was set up in 1560 and is a representation of Laotian architecture. The Sim which is the central shrine hall is composed of nine cascading roofs and is decorated by gold stenciling. The roofs sweep downward in an elaborate array, unique to the architecture of Laos.
Luang Prabang means "the place of the Buddha," for the sacred image of Buddha from which kings would derive their divine right. After the Emerald Buddha which has got a special place in the lives of Laos and Thailand, this is the most sacred image of Buddha in the lives of Laotians. This buddha image is located in a specially made temple Haw Phra Bang in the grounds of the Royal Palace Museum. I spent some time in the museum and then managed to see the Phra Bang before they closed the temple for the afternoon.
In the Palace Museum grounds is also where there is a Laotian Ramayan performance. Unfortunately the performance was cancelled. On enquiring, I was told that the entire troupe had gone to Ayodhya, India where the Ram temple was being inaugurated. Apparently all Ramayan troupes from South East Asian countries were invited to be part of the celebrations.
I ambled around the river front and then had my lunch. In the evening, went around to the Night markets and enjoyed hanging around. The next day, I got up early in the morning to watch the Alms Giving ceremony. Every day the monks come out with their begging bowls early in the morning and residents and tourists alike give them rice, vegetables and any other food items. It was quite touristy, but if you go away from the crowds in the inner lanes, you can see ordinary residents giving alms with devotion and empathy.
I hired a bike and went to visit the Kuang Si Waterfall, one of the most famous in Laos. The road to the waterfall went along side the Mekong before it turned inward to the waterfall. On the way was an Elephant Sanctuary. You need a ticket to see the waterfall and it is a well kept place with adequate parking, a walking trail and stops in between to see the waterfall cascades. I spent half the day there going up to the top of the waterfall and stopping at various pools in between. It is one of the most prettiest waterfalls I have seen and a definite highlight of Luang Prabang and Laos.
On the way back, stopped by at Mekong Cafe which had great coffee and views of the river, before reaching Luang Prabang in the afternoon. I then went to visit one of the oldest antique collectors in Luang Prabang, the Pathana Boupha Antique House. The owners are from a prominent local family and the late patriarch of the family designed many of the costumes and ornaments used in the former Royal Palace.
After browsing through the many antique pieces, I settled on buying a 100 year old wooden Buddha with gold leaf Lacquer. Even if one doesn't buy, It is worth coming here just to check out the beautiful old building and antique collection.
The following day, I started out on my journey to Vang Vieng, the party capital of Laos.
