Vientiane

Capital City

Patuxai

Vientiane is a mid sized town and capital of Laos. It is located on the river banks of Mekong but the river can be seen only at a distance as there is a big sand embankment along side the city. The city was founded during the late 13th century, and in the mid-16th century the capital of the Lao kingdom moved from Luang Prabang to Vientiane. 

After reaching Vientiane, I checked in to my hotel Moonlight Champa. A few meters nearby I found an excellent Laotian restaurant called Lao Derm and I settled down for a traditional Laotian papaya salad Tham Mak Hoon with sticky rice. 

In the evening, it was time to walk around and check out the surroundings. Nearby was the Patuxai or the victory monument ((Patu means "gateway" and Xai is derived from Sanskrit Jaya which means "victory") This gateway built in the 1960s is modeled after Arc de Triomphe in Paris and is the most prominent landmark in the city. The design however has typical Lao and Hindu motifs. The central cloister vault at the ground level is decorated with depictions of the gods Vishnu, Brahma, and Indra. All through out Laos, I could see the influence of Hinduism in their past, while economic realities of the present have made China their natural partner now. 

Recently added to the Patuxai is a fountain donated by the Chinese where local families were having a good time playing in the water and taking photographs. 

The Wats of Vientiane

Ho Phrakeo

The next day was a Sunday and I took a bicycle from my hotel to cycle around the city.  I started with Patuxai before the crowds came in and went up to the top of the monument where you can get views of the surrounding area. From there, I went to the Ho Phrakeo Museum which is a temple built in 1565–1566 on the orders of King Setthathirath after he moved the capital from Luang Prabang to Vientiane. The temple was built on the grounds of the royal palace to house the Emerald Buddha figurine, which Setthathirath had brought from Chiang Mai, then the capital of Lanna, to Luang Prabang. The temple was used as Setthathirath's personal place of worship, and because of this, there were no resident monks in this temple unlike other temples in Laos. Inside the museum there is a fascinating collection of Buddha statutes, Khymer sculptures and a Lacquered door. 

In the afternoon  and evening, went sauntering around some antique shops and spent time drinking coffee at the many great cafes around. 

Other notable temples to see in Vientiane are Wat Sisaket (near Ho Phrakeo) and Wat Si Muang. The former is the oldest temple still standing in Vientiane and has a 

Pha That Luang

cloister wall with more than 2,000 ceramic and silver Buddha images. The temple also houses a museum. Wat Si Muang and the nearby Hor Lak Muang houses the city pillars which are the foundations of the city. 

The Great Stupa

Finally, before leaving Vientiane, I went to see Pha That Luang (The Great Stupa), the most important national monument in Laos as well as a national symbol. This is a large, gold-covered Buddhist stupa which was built in 1566 by King Setthathirat. The original stupa which was built in 3rd century BC was believed to have contained a sacred relic of the Buddha. It is a big complex with multiple temples and grounds to move around and watch the locals performing their faith. 

After a few days in Vientiane, it was time to move on south towards Central Laos and the Thakek trail!