Sumatra - An Introduction

After visiting the Island of Java in 2024, I decided to travel to Sumatra in 2025 as a dedicated trip was required to cover this part of Indonesia. 

Geography and People

Sumatra 

Sumatra is the Sixth largest Island in the world spanning both the Northern and Southern Hemispheres. Sumatra's population is around 60 Million making it the fifth-most populous island in the world. 

Sumatra has a tropical rainforest climate with dry and wet seasons and has a wide range of plant and animal species. However over the years, it has lost almost 50% of its tropical rainforest due to deforestation and cultivation of rubber and Palm plantations. Many species are critically endangered including the Sumatran tiger, elephant, rhinoceros, and the orangutan. 

Sumatra is a highly seismic island. The Great Sumatran fault runs the entire length of the island along its west coast. Earthquakes are very common throughout the coastal area of the west and center and tsunamis are common due to the high seismicity in the area.

History

In ancient times, Sumatra was known by the Sanskrit names of Suvarṇadvipa (Island of Gold) and Suvarṇabhumi (Land of Gold). The first Kingdom in Sumatra were the Melayus who in turn were absorbed by Srivijaya Kingdom. 

After the 11th century, the dominant role of Srivijaya ended and the spread of Islam in Indonesia occurred gradually, starting from the western regions which became the first place for the spread of Islam in the archipelago due to its position of being close to the Malacca strait. By 13th Century, large part of Sumatra converted to Islam. 

Aceh in the north of Sumatra became the trading center for Pepper in the 16th century and the establishment of the Aceh Sultanate. The reign of Iskandar Muda is known as the golden age of Sumatra because he extended the cultural influence of the Aceh Sultanate to Padang and Johor. The Aceh Sultanate sustained the rivalry with the Johor sultanate, the Dutch, and the Portuguese throughout the 16th and 17th century

With the coming of the Dutch Empire, the Sumatran princely states gradually fell under Dutch control. 

Ethnicities and languages 

There are 11 large ethnic groups and 52 languages in Sumatra. The largest indigenous ethnic groups in Sumatra are Malays (Central), Minangkabaus (West), Bataks (North) Acehnese (Aceh), and Lampungs (South). 

Ethnic Groups

The majority of people in Sumatra are Muslims (87%), while 11% are Christians, and less than 2% are Buddhists and Hindus.

Travel Plan

Broadly my plan was to start from the North starting with Banda Aceh and then travel my way south. I hoped to cover the main provinces and cultural groupings which included Aceh (Extreme North) , Medan (North), Padang (West) and then Palembang (South). 

Tribal Hills and River Deltas - Travels in Odisha, Chattisgarh and Andhra

Trip Plan

A friend and I planned to travel to Southern Odisha where we spent our childhood and have an authentic experience meeting the Desias or the local tribes as they are known. Staying in a Township, we had a distant relationship with them during our childhood and we wanted to intimately know them and be part of their culture as insiders, as if in search of our identity and reclaim a small part of who felt we were.

Vishakapatnam - Andhra Pradesh

Thotlakonda Monastery

Traveling to Vizag, we stayed near Rishikonda beach. The beach road is superbly developed and probably one of the best beach stretches in the country with the sea on one side and the hills on the other. Development on the hills is limited due to the Kambalakonda Wildlife sanctuary and two buddhist monasteries built in the early centuries, Bavikonda and Thotlakonda. We met up with some school mates and then made a trip to the Thotlakonda Monastery. 

The Monastery is high up in the hills and the road recently made and well maintained by the state Government. Here buddhist Pilgrims from the Oceans would land and then make their way up to Sarnath and Bodh Gaya. 

Koraput and Sunabeda - Odisha

At the school

From Vizag, we took a train to go to Koraput which winds up through the Araku valley, a popular vacation destination in this area. In Koraput, we met up with the cousin of a school friend and went to the local Jagannath temple. From there we went to Sunabeda township, where we grew up as kids. 

The next day, we explored the town revisiting our childhood hangouts and reminiscing on our younger days. We also went to the markets and met up with the shopkeepers, many of who have retired and their sons taken up their place in running the shops. We managed to get a bike and planned to go to Deomali hills which is the highest mountain in the state of Odisha.

We set out for Deomali the next day through Semiliguda, a nearby town. It was a pleasant ride to the hills through farms and some winding roads. From Deomali, there was a new road which went to Talamali, another nearby hill before returning back to Sunabeda. The hills were barren and the dense green cover that we had experienced during our childhood was long gone due to logging and exploitation of the gullible tribals by timber contractors and the mainstream politicians. No wonder, that Naxalism rose in these areas as a response to the exploitation.

Enroute to Deomali

If one is looking for resorts to stay in this area, there are two Desia Eco Stays, one in Deomali and the other in Machkund where there is a lake created by the building of the Machkund dam.

From Sunabeda, we went to Jeypore and on the way, dropped in on another friend's place, this time a person who had a coffee estate near Koraput called Lamtaput. His name is Sujay Pradhan and he took us to his estate to taste his coffee. Koraput coffee is a brand that the Government is trying to promote, similar to the highly successful Araku Coffee. The Government has also been training and encouraging the tribals to grow coffee and sell back to the Government for being marketed under Koraput Coffee which I thought was a good initiative. We need ways to get away from the water intensive rice farming which is common across India. Sujay was trying to promote his own brand of Coffee called Brown Valley and his specialty coffee tasted very good, so there is a good potential for Coffee from these areas. Many Entrepreneurs have been growing Coffee for many years now and this could become a new source of income if marketed well.  

The Paraja Villages - Koraput, Odisha

Paraja Tribe Woman

In Koraput, we got the reference of a person in Borigumma which is a town a little away from Jeypore and we met up with him there after taking a bus from Jeypore. His name was Nageswar Gowdo and he is from one of the local tribes and a PHD scholar who is studying history in the nearby University. Nageswar would be able to take us to some of the nearby villages and meet up with the local tribes in that area. 

The major tribe in the area are the Paraja (which comes from Sanskrit Praja meaning the common people). Their mother tongue Parji is a form of Gondi belonging to Dravidian family of languages. But now most of them living in undivided Koraput district speak the regional language called "Desia". 

The Parajas are simple, friendly and hospitable, but like to remain aloof from the people of other communities as they are shy by nature. Paraja settlements are uniclan in structure and are usually located near foothills where perennial hill streams are flowing down the hills to provide them drinking water throughout the year. In multi ethnic villages they live in separate hamlets keeping social distance from other ethnic groups and maintaining their own cultural identity

Gowdo took us to one Paraja village where we met an old blind man who was the last of the story tellers. He said that the new generation didn't sing the old songs and probably these will be lost with him. He sang a few songs for us and attempted to act it out. Playing musical instruments is also fading away as the younger generation dances to Desia songs from Youtube.

Local Landa

In the evening, we went riding triples to another Paraja village near where Gowdo stays. It was a while that we rode triples (during school days!). Luckily for us, all of us were slim and could fit in. We also tasted some "Landa" made from Ragi. Tribal communities drink Landa at home with younger and older members of the family. This is a fermented drink and is good for the gut. Landa is an essential component of various festivals, is considered auspicious and is offered to appease the gods for good fortune, a bumper yield and good health. 

We went and met a teacher who made us sit outside his home. Soon a friend of his who was a local leader joined us. They were all young, in their 20s. All of them have taken advantage of Government schemes and got themselves educated. I went through some study material. The textbooks were written in Desia by a NGO called Asha Kiran Society and the hope was that this will make Desia speaking people literate and then pave the way for them to learn Odiya, the state language through bridge literacy material.

The Dancers at the Village

We requested the teacher's wife to arrange for a dance session with some music. She was shy and initially hesitated, but then after a little more prodding took up the task enthusiastically, gathering the village children and ladies to dance for us. They put up a boombox in the village square. The whole village turned up to watch with lot of enthusiasm. We waited for the eldest leader of the village to come who we greeted and then the program started. The songs were mainly Desia songs, but there were some old hindi remixes as well which shows how the local culture gets influenced by the mainstream over a period of time.   

We were keen to taste the local ‘mahuli’ liquor made from mahua flowers and these were brought surreptitiously in plastic packets. It was surprisingly smooth and light, even comparable to the best of Single Malts! As the evening progressed, the dances became more frenetic till we had to  stop when it became pitch dark and we took leave of the village after a lot of photographs and thanks to the entire troupe and village. 

Maths under the street light

While the older folks wore the traditional dress, the younger ones nowadays wear normal maxis and skirts wearing the traditional saree only during occasions. Also the mud huts were concretized with funds coming in from the Pradhan Mantri Awaas Yojana. 

We then went to the next village which Gowdo is from and finally said our byes to our hosts. Before we left, we spied upon a group of kids below the village Banyan tree huddled up under the street light. To our shock and pleasant surprise, we found that they were studying mathematics and a few other subjects along with a tutor. The math was algebra and pretty complicated. The kids were bright, had a twinkle in their eyes and for sure, fire in their bellies. These were the next generation of kids with the hunger to lift themselves up and do well in Society. We were superbly impressed even as my friend immediately video called up his daughter to show her the real India, studying under the street light and ready to blaze their way to future success. 

Jagdalpur - Chattisgarh 

Chitrakoot Falls

From Borigumma, we left for Jagdalpur in Bastar district of Chattisgarh. Even a few years back, this area was the hotbed of Naxal activities, but with the presence of the heavily armed Cobra security battalions and developmental activities being carried out in parallel by the State, these have largely vanished and life was normal across the district. At Jagdalpur, we checked into the hotel and then hired a driver who would take us out for a day tour to the nearby Chitrakoot falls. It was also the week of Maha Shivratri and there was a festival fair going on near the falls where a large temporary market had come up.

The water in the falls was less due to the upstream dam, we were told it would be much more during the monsoon season. After seeing the falls, we went into the market where there were hundreds of stalls and a milieu of crowds. We tried out different types of Mahuli brought to the fair by tribal women in plastic buckets! Feeling nice and high, we set out on a circular route back to Jagdalpur. Enroute, we stopped at a steep ravine called Mendri Ghumar which was a lovely spot and from there we could see miles away into the valley below where the river Indravathi was flowing.  

Traditional Cock Fight

As we were returning back, we spied upon a place where there was a traditional cock fight going on. We were invited to have a VIP seat where we could see the cock fighting events. It was a betting market out there, with different contenders finalizing the duels to be fought based on the bird weight and size. The selected birds were then tied with a steel claw which would mean that this would be a fight to the death with the winner killing the other bird. As the birds were brought onto the fight arena, there was a frenzy of betting with cash trading hands instantly like the stock market and the sounds rose to a high pitch as the birds fought aggressively, till one of them dropped off to his death. The sound of the crowds would then die down with the winners jubilantly counting their earnings while the losers give a sigh of defeat and try their luck in the next round of bird fight.

It was gruesome as well as fascinating. No amount of classroom teaching will teach the science of economics, supply and demand as spending a day in these markets.  

The Godavari Belt - Andhra Pradesh

Paddy Fields

From Jagdalpur, we set out to Bhadrachalam the next day which is a town in Andhra Pradesh in the Godavari River belt. The plan was to stay a night there and then take a boat down the Godavari to Rajahmundry where the Godavari meets the sea. This area is one of the most fertile deltas in India and the rice fields of Godavari have made the Kamma castes of Andhra Pradesh rich and prosperous.  The Kammas are one of the richest groups in Andhra Pradesh with socio-economic and political prominence throughout the Telugu-speaking regions of India. Valuing education along with wealth, in recent times, large number of Kammas have migrated to the United States.

Boat Ride down the Godavari

The boat ride was around 7 hours and would have been a great experience, except for the Indian penchant for music and dance which accompanies every outing. We had hoped for a quiet drift down the Godavari as it went through the Papikondalu Wildlife Sanctuary, bit that was not to be. We also joined in as there was no option and ended up playing housie, listening to loud music and dancing on the deck for Andhra uncles and aunties. For the first time in my life, I got a full house and my friend RK, got the top line. We donated the winning proceeds to the crew and our reward was to dance on the deck with the cast and crew. The crew also put in a dance drama which was quite enjoyable.

We finally reached Rajahmundy and spent the evening with our school friend, Suresh and his family who is based there.

Sri Rama Sadan

The next day, we set out for a trip down the delta into the verdant green fields. Enroute RK wanted to find the village of his origin which he had seen in a Youtube video and we ended up going to a small village called Peruru near Amlapuram. There we found a house called Sri Rama Sadan. The lady who came to greet us was the owner of the house. She had returned back from the US and built the house in the local tradition. We took a tour of the house which was built using local materials and had a large courtyard and a Gowshala (Cow Shed) at the back. It was a nice tour and we had a good conversation with her and her  philosophy of life and why she came back to take care of her parents and in-laws. 

Yanam

We then rounded off our trip by going to Yanam (Part of Pondicherry !)which was at the sea edge and turned back from near Kakinada to come back to Rajahmundry. All the way, I was imagining how the area can be turned into the next Schenzen if only our politicians had the vision and will power as the area had everything going - lot of land, river delta, a port, rich crops and commodities and well drawn roads from the hinterland to the sea. 

The next day, after saying good bye to our friend and his family, we caught the flight back to Bengaluru completing an eventful trip that will be remembered for a long time for the diverse experiences that we had.

   

  

Chettinad - A hidden Gem

Traveling to Chettinad 

Chettinad means Land of the Chettiars and this region consisting a few districts is located in Tamil Nadu, India. It was historically the homeland of the Chettiar community, a prosperous merchant and banking class, whose legacy is reflected in the grandeur of the region.

The origin of Chettinad was in the 13th century when the Nattukottai Chettiars migrated to Karaikudi from the area of Cauvery Poompattinam after a massive flood destroyed their houses and business. This new settlement eventually became the Chettinad region of 96 villages in 1947 and over a 600-1500 square mile area, out of which around 76 villages still exist today. 

Today, the Chettinad region is well known for its 19th-century mansions, whose wide courtyards and spacious rooms are embellished with marble and teak. Some of these have now been converted to Heritage vilas and hotels. 

Chidambara Vila

We were looking to stay for a few days at one of these places but most of them were booked out. We finally managed to get accommodation at Chidambara Vilas which is a 110 year old heritage home, now converted into a hotel. The plan was to stay for 2 nights and 3 days and then travel to Madurai before returning to Bangalore.  

Chidambara vila was built between 1897 to 1904 on a one acre plot which was gifted by the Maharaja of Pudukottai to Krishnappa Chettiar, a powerful and influential family known for their financial prowess and traditional Chettinad heritage. The villa has been leased to the Sangam group to manage the property which restored it over 3 years to ensure that the authentic heritage of the house is preserved.

The Chettiar Community

The Chettiars were traders and financiers across Southeast Asia, particularly during the second half of 19th and early 20th century when they were at the peak of their economic power. They were the major banking Hindu community of South India.

For centuries, the Chettiars were traders in salt and semi-precious stones. They always led urban lives and had little interest in cultivation. It was the British who first asked the Chettiars to finance rice cultivation in Burma. Even though they started as the agents of British banks in Burma, the Chettiars swiftly graduated to being money-lenders. The community had trade contacts with Vietnam, SriLanka, Malaysia, Cambodia, Laos and Indonesia.  

Chettiar Mansions 

Mansion Interiors

The Chettiars sent back the money earned abroad to save. At home, they mainly engaged in banking and later ventured into agriculture, industry and other businesses. Settling down in the Chettinad region, they built large mansions from their riches. These mansions have an unqiue architecture imbibing influences from all over the world along with combining Tamil traditions. The community is organized around 9 clan temples. Each member of the Chettiar community belongs to a clan and each clan has its own temple.

The mansions are all built in a South-North/East-West grid pattern with Construction materials, decorative items, and furnishings mostly imported from East Asian countries and Europe. The marble was brought from Italy, chandeliers and teak from Burma, crockery from Indonesia, crystals from Europe and wall-to-wall mirrors from Belgium. Many of these mansions were built using a type of limestone known as karai. In fact, this is why this area is called Karaikudi. The mansion walls were polished with a paste made out of egg whites and palm sugar to give them a smooth texture and for their cooling qualities. These walls can be cleaned and are strong enough to last centuries.

Vila Tour

One of the perks of staying at the hotel was an hour long free tour of the Vila which was conducted by the Manager. We were taken through the architecture of the house, building design and materials used. It was for us one of the highlights of the trip. 

Abandoned Villas

We also did a village walk in Ramachandrapuram. All around the village, there were abandoned villas which were built from early British rule to the 1940s. Walking around these abandoned houses and looking at their facades was an amazing experience. The village had houses, a school where Mahatma Gandhi had once visited, a temple and a tank. 

The village tank was in the outskirts of the village. Rain water from each house is taken by underground drains which collectively terminate in the tanks. When the tank overflows, the excess water runs into the adjoining tanks through provisions in the previous tank 

Facade

Facade Stucco Work

The mansion’s facade is embellished with stucco figurines, murals, ornamental balustrades, cornices and domed towers. In the centre are tall stucco figurines of Gajalakshmi (the goddess of wealth) depicted standing on a lotus, flanked by elephants pouring water from pots held in their trunks, and women chamara -bearers. Above the Gajalakshmi statue are flying angels with garlands in their hands. Gajalakshmi symbolizes protection and prosperity and is the leitmotif of the facades of all the mansions. 

A Chettinad house extends from one end of the lane to the next and the doors are in perfect alignment. If the doors are open, standing on the main door of the house, one can see the subsequent doors all the way to the parallel lane.

The entire building was built on an elevated plinth which keeps rains and floods away. This practice came from their fear of water as their earlier livelihood was washed away by floods from the sea. 

The building is divided into portions called ‘Kattu’ and each house has a Mugappu, Valavu, Irandankattu, Moonankattu & thottam

Reception Area  - Mugappu 

Mugappu with Main Door at the back

This is the reception area at the entrance of the house. The outside verandah called Thinnai is a raised platform for guests with two rooms on either ends for conducting business. Large Wooden pillars support these platforms. A key element of the reception is the Kallupetti which is the accountant’s desk. 

The courtyard showcases Belgium glass decorations, Italian tiles, Victorian furniture and chandeliers. This area was used to conduct business and entertain visitors, while entry to the rest of the house was restricted to family.

The main door which leads to the living area of the house is made of Burma teak and intricately carved with ornate wood work and figures of Gods and Goddesses. Delicate floral filigrees adorn the high door frame. 

Living Area - Valavu 

This is the living area of the house with an interior courtyard which is used for living for during ceremonies. Raised platforms form the corridor around the courtyard which have several living halls and double storerooms that are allocated to each married son to store their personal belongings. These are generally on the ground floor.  

Kolam in the Valavu Area

Living rooms and bedrooms are mostly on the first floor. Window niches and arches above are decorated with stucco work or paintings. Murals can be seen on the top of the doors.

The main Valavu which also has the Pooja Room is still used for family functions and festivals. In the courtyard, there were two large Kolams that were made every day by a lady early in the morning after washing away the previous days Kolam. It is a ceremony worth watching.

All the floors are laid with Italian marble Black and White, Granite and  Athangudi tiles. Japanese and Spanish tiles are used for side walls. The courtyard is designed for collecting and harvesting rain water. 

Dining and Kitchen

The Irandankattu is used for dining with storerooms for storing crockery and cookware. The last courtyard at the rear end of Chettinad Home is the Kitchen area or the Moomankattu. This served as the women’s domain where the women of the community reared children, engaged in cooking and in preserving foods. 

The Thottam is the Garden with stables and cowsheds.

Roof and Pillars

Pillars

Chettinad roofs are uniquely designed for air cooling and collecting rainwater. The repetition of rectangular plots, the organization of the houses in successive courtyards and the hierarchy of the pavilions with sloping and terrace roofs has created a specific roofscape, unique to Chettinad 

The pillars in the houses are made of Wood, stone and Granite. Wooden columns are mainly used for inside areas and stone pillars for the courtyards (main or kitchen). In a later period, granite pillars were used in the outdoor thinnai.

Managing the Business

We got some interesting insights from our hosts about the way the business was managed. For example in the reception area, one side of the Thinnai was used for disbursing loans and the other for collecting payments. Each payment was separated into the Principal and Interest and stored in separate rooms for easy book keeping. The norm was that any additional investment or expenses of the house can be taken only from the Interest and the Principal cannot be touched. Touche!   

Each son was given one profession to handle and these would be rotated on a yearly basis to build trust amongst them. For example one son would be given the money lending business while the other would take care of farming. After a year the roles will be rotated. Also, each son would have to get experience in another Chettiar family before being allowed to independently manage the business. This is to ensure that the father is not soft on them!

The lending interest rates would be set by one of the Chettiar families in Chennai and communicated daily. Every Chettiar family then had to offer the same interest for the day so that there is no undercutting. 

Chettinad Meals

No trip to Chettinad is complete without savoring the unique Chettinad meal. Chidambara Vilas had a special thali which was supervised by a lady whose family used to cook for the same Chettiar household and what followed was a delightful feast. 

Kavuni Arisi (Black Rice) Payasam was the first sweet dish to taste before diving into the rest of the food. 

There were soups like Murunga keerai (a flavourful and healthy soup made with drumstick leaves) and Karuveppilai Kozhi Rasam (a thin peppery chicken bone soup). 

Malli Saadam or Jasmine Rice was provided along with Pulao. This was accompanied by vegetables -  Vatha Kuzhambu (Dried vegetable Gravy),  Vazhaithandu Kootukari (Banana Stem cooked in Toor dal and tempered with coconut and tadka), Beetroot Potato Podimass (stir-fry dish made with beetroot and potato), Kovakkai Masala ( ivy gourd also known as tindora or dondakaya cooked in a flavorful masala gravy), Vendakkai Milagai Mandi - (Lady's finger green chili subji) and Senai Varuval (Elephant Yam fried dish). 

Paruppu Nei (Ghee Dal), Suraikkai Sambar (Bottle gourd sambar) and Paruppu Rasam (Ghee Rasam) accompanied the vegetables. Other side dishes included Green Peas Vadai (Vadas made of green peas), Maangai Pachadi (Raw Mango chutney) and Nilakkadalai Thuvayal (Peanut chutney)

Non Veg items that were included were Kozhi Varutha Curry (Roasted Chicken), Meen Varuval (Roasted Fish), Meen Kuzhambu (Fish Gravy), and Muttai Poriyal (Egg Stir Fry)

Finally, there was the Yoghurt and Aval Payasam (Flattened Rice Payasam) to finish off the meal.

Places to See 

Chidambara villas is located in a village called Ramachandrapuram, a little away from the main hubs of Kanadukathan, Athangudi and Karaikudi all towards the south where most of the heritage buildings and the antique market are located. Athangudi is the location for the spectacular Athangudi Palace and Athangudi tiles which are made in the village. Karaikudi has the Antiques market, one of the finest antique markets in the country with exotic authentic antiques available at down to earth prices. 

Over the course of the next 2 days, we went around the Chettinad area. To the south in Kanadukathan, we toured the VVR Heritage house which is well preserved. The Athangudi Palace in Periyaveedu is well maintained and is a must see. Finally we went to the Karaikkudi Antiques Market and bought a spectacular wooden Window framed painting of Lord Krishna which we proudly installed at our home. Very soon, our tour of Chettinad was over and we left for Madurai to see the Meenakshi temple and thereafter back to Bangalore.

Johor - Gateway to Singapore

Johor Bahru - The Capital

The road trip from Melaka to Johor took 5 1/2 hours. It was the Chinese new year holiday seasons and schools were closed, so there were a lot of holiday crowd travelling back to Johor and Singapore. The roads were busy. The journey was pleasant and the bus very comfortable. Outside, I could see Palm tree plantations as well as forested areas. 

As we entered Johor Bahru (JB), what struck me was that it looked like suburban US with a spread out city and big houses on large tracts of lands. The roads are a vast network and well maintained.. The bus station was called Larkin Sentral and in the outskirts of the city. As I went from Larkin to the city, I could see tall buildings in the downtown area. I was staying in a residential area in a guest house called A Borneo home stay which was run by a nice young Chinese couple. 

JB  is the financial and logistics center of southern Peninsular Malaysia. It has the fastest urbanization growth in Malaysia. the world's busiest international border crossing (to Singapore) and the 15th-busiest port in the world. In 2024, Mercer has ranked JB as a global city with the third highest living quality in Southeast Asia after Singapore and Kuala Lumpur.

Chinese Communities and Development of Johor

In the mid 19th century, when Johor was under the administration of Temenggong Ibrahim, the Chinese planters had obtained "surat sungai", a permit from the ruler for the cultivation of gambier and pepper plantations in the vicinity of a river. The permit holders were the kangchus (In the Teochew dialect, "kang" means "river") or river masters and hence the Kangchu System was created.

Since the implementation of the Kangchu System, the Chinese had set up more than 100 kangs in Johor, thus turning Johor into a developed state within a short period of time.

In the early years, all business transactions in the Chinese community were conducted in dialects, resulting in each dialect group monopolizing a particular trade. 

Under the leadership of Ngee Heng Kongsi and later, the Johor Chinese Association, the five major dialect groups, namely Teochew, Hokkien, Hakka, Cantonese and Hainanese were united in dealing with social affairs, thus contributing to the stability of the Chinese community in Johor Bahru. This became a tradition of Johor Bahru Chinese community.

In 1914, when Johor became part of the Unfederated Malay States under the British colonial authority, the Kangchu System was abolished and the Ngee Heng Kongsi disbanded. 

Notable Sights

Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque 

Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque

I walked from my Guesthouse to the Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque towards the ocean noting the restaurants nearby my place later for dinner. The Mosque has an unique blend of Western Neo-Classical, Victorian, and Moorish Islamic design. This mosque was built during the reign of Sultan Abu Bakar. The Johor Sultanate had been part of the Malaccan Sultanate before Malacca fell to the Portuguese in 1511. 

From the Mosque, I walked alongside the Zoo and Gardens to Jalan Trus which is the old town with the City Hall and temples of all communities including an Old Chinese Temple, Masjid India, Goddess Rajamariamman temple, Church of the Immaculate Conception and a Sikh Gurudwara. All of these are walking distance from each other.

Old Chinese Temple

Gurudwara

Rajamariamman Temple

Old Chinese Temple

One of Johor Bahru's ancient temples, believed commissioned by Ngee Heng kongsi leader, Tan Hiok Nee. A well-preserved Chinese calligraphy plaque indicates it was built in 1870.  

This temple is one of the oldest structures in the city and become the symbol of unity among the seven Chinese dialect groups namely Teochews, Hoklo (Hokkiens), Cantonese, Hakka, Foochowese, Henghua and Hainanese peoples.

Arulmigu Rajamariamman Devasthanam

Founded in 1911 by Kootha Perumal Vandayar and built on land donated by Sultan Sir Ibrahim. The 75ft 5-tiered Rajagopuram has 125 figurines & 25 murals, topped by 5 gold-plated kolasam

Gurdwara Sahib

The Sikh community's house of worship at Jalan Trus, built in 1921 on land awarded by Sultan Sir Ibrahim for the community's assistance during a fire. 

Chinese Heritage Museum 

Glass Temple Statue

This Museum is great to understand the the settlement and history of Johor’s Chinese community. Collections include musical instruments, old coins, porcelain, photos, documents, and other artifacts. 

The old city area has several murals, shops, restaurants and also a night market amongst high rise apartments and hotels and one can spend an evening walking around the area.

A little far off is a hindu temple made of glass (Arulmigu Sri Rajakaliamman Glass Temple) which I found quite quaint. This temple is embellished by a mosaic of 300,000 pieces of red, blue, yellow, green, purple and white glass. There are marble statues of figures like Shri Ramakrishna, Mother Teresa, Shirdi Sai Baba among many others. 

After Johor, I took a bus straight to Kuala Lumpur International airport and it was time for me to return back to Bangalore. I had covered most of the Malay Peninsula except the East Coast where it was Monsoons and I was looking forward to explore that in my next trip. 

Melaka - Land of Spices and Trade

I reached Melaka (also called Malacca) after a long 7 hour bus journey from Penang to the South of the Malay Peninsula. I took the ferry from George Town into Penang Sentral from where I caught the bus. Melaka City is another world heritage town and I took a hotel which was a few minutes walk to the historic town area where most of the attractions were. 

History

River Front

Melaka is the location of one of the earliest Malay sultanates, the Malacca Sultanate. The head of state is now a Governor, rather than a sultan as the local monarchy was abolished when the Portuguese conquered it in 1511. Strategically located, Malacca was once a well-known international trade center in the East. Traders from Arabia, China and India traded at the port of Malacca and a great diversity of ethnicities now live here reflecting its history. Significant ethnic groups living in the State of Malacca in the present day are the Malays, Chinese, Indians, Baba Nyonya, Kristang, Chitty, Temuan and Eurasians.

Christ Church 

After the Portuguese, the Dutch and the British ruled here. The Dutch ruled Malacca from 1641 and was ceded to the British in the Anglo-Dutch Treaty of 1824. From 1824 to 1942, Malacca was under the rule of the British, first by the East India Company and then as a crown colony.

The Melaka city economy is largely based on tourism and has a superbly maintained historic central area. This area includes St Paul's Hill with the ruins of the Portuguese fortress and the Dutch Square on the right (eastern) bank of the river, and the old Chinatown on the left (western) bank. Surrounding this area are all the major hotels and malls making it very convenient for tourists to stay and explore the area. 

Chinese New Year

Local Art

It was the Chinese New Year when I was in Melaka and the celebrations could be seen across the Chinatown area. Crackers were bursting all around and the temples were full. 2025 marks the Year of the Snake in the Chinese lunar calendar. Hordes of tourists from China had come (It's visa free for them similar to Indians) and it was also a public holiday in Malaysia, so the local population including Chinese, Malays and Indians had come to Melaka to celebrate. It was a festive atmosphere across the city and restaurants and malls were full with families eating out and celebrating.

Apart from the food, people were shopping for goodies made by the local Chinese which are Malacca specialties. I also bought quite a bit of them to take back home.  These included baked biscuits, cookies, tarts, condiments etc. I also picked up a print of one of the local artists who had a great collection of his paintings and a few other artists in his studio.

There were shops selling various antiques, tea sets and some excellent Chinese tea. I bought a portable Chinese Tea set and some high graded tea which isn't available back home. The art of tea making is something that I learnt in Vietnam from one of the antique dealers there who had invited me to a tea drinking ceremony. Here's a short video for those who are interested in it.

 How to drink Chinese Tea

Tourist Sites

Jonker Walk

The Jonker Walk located along Jonker Street is the Chinatown area and is superbly well preserved. It is  filled with historical houses dating back to the 17th century, many of which are shops selling antiques, textiles, foods, handicrafts and souvenirs. I spent most the days walking around these streets. 

Chen Hoon Temple 

Jonker Walk

The Cheng Hoon Teng Temple is a Chinese temple practicing the three Doctrinal Systems of Buddhism, Confucianism and Taoism. It is the oldest functioning temple in the country. The temple consists of a complex of several prayer halls with a large main prayer hall dedicated to the goddess of mercy, Guan Yin. Other prayer halls are dedicated to the Chinese deities of wealth, longevity and propagation and one dedicated to ancestral tablets.

Chen Hoon Temple

The temple was full of devotees who had come to celebrate Chinese New year and of course for me, a photographer's delight. The prayers, incense and ceremonies reminded me of a Hindu festival without the cacophony and noise. The Chinese also burn paper in a traditional practice called "burning joss paper," where people offer paper items like money, clothes, or even houses as symbolic gifts to their ancestors or deities, believing the items will be accessible to them in the afterlife when the paper is burned.

The Malacca Sultanate Palace Museum

The Malacca Sultanate Palace Museum is a replica of a classic Malacca Sultanate Palace, was built to represent the Malay culture and Malaccan history during the sultanate era. The building was constructed without using any nails. This museum explores the trade and ethnicities of the area and is pretty well curated.

Dutch Square

Dutch Square

The Dutch Square is an area surrounded by Dutch buildings such as the Stadthuys, Christ Church and a Fountain.  The Portuguese traces are mostly on the Fortress and St. Peter's Church at the top of an elevated hillock. I took a walk to the Fortress built in around 1512 and from here climbed the stairs to St. Paul’s Hill and Church. I then walked around the ruins to soak up the panoramic views of the city and the sunset in the evening.

The Kopitiam and restaurants around the city serve mixed cultural influences of Malay and Baba Nyonya as well as various regional Chinese cuisines such as Teochew and European cuisines.

Next Destination

After a few days, I decided to go further south and check out Johor. This was earlier a Sultanate and the capital Johor Bahur which is a stones throw away from Singapore and the second largest city after KL. 

George Town - World Heritage Site

Arriving in George Town

I took a Komuter Uttara train from Taiping and arrived at Butterworth station near Penang Sentral station. From here there are regular ferries to Penang Island and within a few minutes was in George Town, the capital of Penang state and a world heritage town. Established by Francis Light in 1786, George Town was the first British settlement in Southeast Asia, and its proximity to maritime routes along the Strait of Malacca attracted an influx of immigrants from various parts of Asia.

Economy

Georgetown view from Ferry

Following the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869 and a tin mining boom in the Malay Peninsula, the Port of Penang became a leading exporter of tin. By the end of the 19th century, George Town emerged as the foremost financial Centre of British Malaya, as mercantile firms and international banks were established. 

Today it still occupies a major role in the Malaysian economy. As I crossed in the ferry, I could see large electric lines form the mainland across the road to the Island. These carried electricity and internet to George Town which, anchored by hundreds of multinational companies in the technological sector has made George Town the top exporter in the country.

Heritage City Status

Post independence, George Town's free port status was rescinded in 1969 by the Malaysian federal government sparking massive unemployment, brain drain and urban decay within the city. In 1974, a Free Industrial Zone was developed outside the city which resulted in reducing urban population as residents moved towards newer suburban townships  and hundreds of shophouses and whole streets were destroyed which exacerbated the hollowing out of George Town.  

Further in 2001, the Rent Control Act was repealed, worsening the depopulation of the city's historical core and leaving colonial-era buildings in disrepair. In response, George Town's civil societies gathered public support for the conservation of historic buildings, and to restore the city to its former glory. Following subsequent heritage conservation efforts, a portion of the city center was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008. 

China Town Area

The state government also took an inclusive approach to heritage conservation and sustainable urban development, while pursuing economic diversification at the same time.

However, as I walked around I did notice that the buildings are worn out and could do with more renovation and coatings of paint especially the China town area. Due to the sea and heavy tropical rains, the buildings deteriorate faster and therefore need more maintenance. The British Colonial buildings are well maintained though. Later as I compared it to Melaka which is much better managed, I felt more can be done by the Government to preserve this heritage town.  

The City

Little India

George Town has a mix of many cultures including Peranakan, Chinese, Indian, Malay and Eurasians and this has made it into a melting pot both culturally and in the gastronomic scene. Chinese and Indian temples jostle with Mosques and some of the best food can be found here, both street food and Michelin star restaurants. Predominantly it is a Chinese city with the Chinese forming more than half of the population. 

The entire Town is built in a grid like formation with specific areas for different communities like China Town, Little India and the Administrative area. I stayed in a hotel called LiLi Stay Lebuh Melayu on Melayu road in the Heritage area and a short walk to the China Town area.

Street Art

Street Art

Penang is famous for its street arts and wall murals. Many of them are iconic and painted by Ernest Zacharevic, who is a local based artist. His art often features children in playful, everyday scenes and it blends with the surroundings, sometimes incorporating real objects like a bicycle or a motorbike

Food and Culture

Must eat foods in George Town includes char kway teow, asam laksa and nasi kandar. There are many street food and fine dining restaurants. The 2025 edition of the Michelin Guide features 63 eateries throughout the city. 

Clans and Secret Societies

Penang’s early Chinese immigrants found strength by forming clan associations with members of extended family sharing a common surname. “Kongsi” or clan houses were established as a place to honor ancestral spirits, provided welfare and education for members as well as promoting and strengthening business interests. 

Certain Kongsi welded considerable influence in Penang’s early history, often controlling somewhat shady businesses, essentially the Triads of the day. Hokkien dominated Ghee Hin (Kian Tek) and Hakka dominated Hai San (Tua Pek Kong) were two prominent societies. 

Chinese secret societies have in common the swearing of an oath to join, strict rules, a family relationship among members, the duty of mutual help, a hierarchy of functions, and hereditary membership within families.

Kongsi Building of Lee

Over time, a stronger colonial government and police force gradually disarmed the kongsis. In a symbolic move, the British renamed Larut town Taiping, which in Mandarin means everlasting peace. This peace transformed the former secret societies into more than 10,000 local clan associations today that focus on social activities, community welfare and cultural traditions. These are largely grouped around different Chinese dialects, namely Cantonese, Hokkien, Teochew, Hainan, Hakka, Kwangsi and Sanjiang.

Kongsis now face a modern-day threat: how to stay relevant and draw the next generation of volunteers to keep their traditions alive. The movement of youth to larger cities and overseas is one reason why clan associations in smaller towns are struggling with youth participation. Also, before Malaysia gained independence in 1957, clan associations played larger roles in the community by acting as job recruitment centers, for example, or operating Chinese vernacular schools. Such roles have now been largely taken over by the federal government. As a result, these associations had to shift focus, with some pivoting to business, politics and even sports.

Notable Sights

The Goddess of Mercy Temple 

Goddess of Mercy Temple

This is a Mahayana Buddhist temple and was built in 1728, making it the oldest Buddhist temple in the state. The temple is dedicated to the Buddhist Bodhisattva of Mercy, Guan Yin.  The Goddess Guanyin is regarded as a manifestation of the Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara and is associated strongly with fertility rites. She is also the goddess to whom people pray for mercy in times of distress. 

This temple also served as the mediator looking after the spiritual and secular needs of the rival Cantonese and Hokkien communities. The temple follows the Hokkien architecture style with its curving roof ridges topped with prancing dragons.

In 1867, the Cantonese-dominated Hai San secret society fought against its Hokkien rival, the Ghee Hin secret society. This sparked the ten-day Penang Riots, and together with the Larut Wars in the neighbouring Sultanate of Perak, it highlighted the temple's failure in its role to mediate between the Hokkiens and the Cantonese. The Penang Chinese Town Hall was then established by Penang's Chinese merchants in 1881 to take over the economic and social functions of the Kong Hock Keong, as well as to settle disputes between the Hokkiens and the Cantonese. A video walkthrough of the temple can be seen here Goddess of Mercy Temple

Tua Pek Kong Temple

Cleaning Tua Pek Kong 

This is the second oldest Chinese temple in George Town, established in 1810 and has been beautifully restored. Tua Pek Kong is a Taoist deity in Peranakan folk religion practiced by ethnic Chinese in Malaysia, Singapore, and parts of Indonesia and is referred as the "God of Prosperity". 

Adjacent to it are three Cantonese style Kongsi (Chinese companies) temples. The unusual and prominent gables represent the element of fire and fish roof adornments is a symbol of abundance favored by the Cantonese rather than the more commonly sighted dragons. In the middle is the War Emperor's temple, Guan Gong (also called Kwan Kong).

Yap Kongsi Clan Temple

Elaborate pillar carving

Built by the Yap clan, one of Penang's oldest and most prominent Hokkien clans in the late 19th century, this tiny but beautiful temple is dedicated to the Chinese god of prosperity. It was formerly the base of the Hai San secret society run by the Straits Chinese. The temple has elaborate carvings, intricate ceramic tile work, and vibrant roof decorations, blending elements of Art Deco with the distinct Straits Chinese style. Blue dragons, a green roof, and walls decorated with pearls can be seen. Three porcelain figures are present at the top the roof, symbolizing luck, wealth, and health—a motif replicated in apartments and eateries throughout the city.

Clan Houses - The Khoo Kongsi

Prayer Building of Khoo Kongsi 

The Hokkien Kongsi in Penang, Malaysia, are made up of several clans, including the Khoo, Cheah, Yeoh, Lim, and Tan Kongsi. 

The Khoo Kongsi (meant for those who had Khoo as their Surname) is the jewel in the crown of Penang’s clan houses and has an elaborate and highly ornamented architecture. It is the most opulent and most ostentatious clan temple building in Penang, and possibly anywhere outside mainland China.

The temple complex has a prayer pavilion,  a traditional theatre and the late 19th century rowhouses for clan members spread around a granite-paved square. The interiors as well as exterior of the prayer building is exquisite and its worth spending some time going through the detailed carvings and paintings. There is an attached museum with details of the Khoo Kongsi origins and history and an art gallery also. All in all I spent a few hours going through the details.  A detailed video can be seen here for those who are interested Khoo Kongsi Walk Through

Other than the Khoo Kongsi, there are multiple Clan temples and Guild Halls across China Town.

 Masjid Kapitan Keling

Masjid Kapitan Keling

This is a Mosque named after an Indian Moslem merchant, the "Kapitan Kling" (headman). It has a single minaret built in Indian-Muslim style around 1800. "Keling" is a Malay term for people of Indian origin. The "Kapitan" was a representative of the Indian community, like the "Kapitan Cina" for the Chinese community. 

Interestingly, I found that Keling is derived from Kalinga, the ancient Kingdom from Odisha and is used to denote Indian origin people across South East Asia. Prior to the introduction of the English word "India", Keling and Jambu Dwipa were used to refer to the country in the Malay and Indonesian. Originally a neutral term, since the mid-20th century it has been considered derogatory and an ethnic slur.

Esplanade and Clock Tower 

Clock Tower

The evenings are a good time to walk along the seaside promenade and the Esplanade where Captain Francis Light, the founder of George Town, first landed on 17 July 1786.  Nearby is the City Hall, Fort Cornwallis and the Clock Tower. I spent a pleasant evening taking on the sights. I also visited the Penang State Art Gallery where there are some nice paintings of Malaysian and Foreign artists. The gallery manager not used to too many visitors was very happy to see me and talked about all the places I should visit in Penang Island.  

Built in 1897, The Victoria Memorial Clock Tower was erected in commemoration of Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee by the rich Chinese towkay, Cheah Chin Gok. It is 60 feet tall, one foot for every year of her reign. 

A few days in Georgetown and it was time for me to head out again. This time it would be a long journey south to the straits of Malacca and the state of Johor bordering Singapore.