George Town - World Heritage Site

Arriving in George Town

I took a Komuter Uttara train from Taiping and arrived at Butterworth station near Penang Sentral station. From here there are regular ferries to Penang Island and within a few minutes was in George Town, the capital of Penang state and a world heritage town. Established by Francis Light in 1786, George Town was the first British settlement in Southeast Asia, and its proximity to maritime routes along the Strait of Malacca attracted an influx of immigrants from various parts of Asia.

Economy

Georgetown view from Ferry

Following the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869 and a tin mining boom in the Malay Peninsula, the Port of Penang became a leading exporter of tin. By the end of the 19th century, George Town emerged as the foremost financial Centre of British Malaya, as mercantile firms and international banks were established. 

Today it still occupies a major role in the Malaysian economy. As I crossed in the ferry, I could see large electric lines form the mainland across the road to the Island. These carried electricity and internet to George Town which, anchored by hundreds of multinational companies in the technological sector has made George Town the top exporter in the country.

Heritage City Status

Post independence, George Town's free port status was rescinded in 1969 by the Malaysian federal government sparking massive unemployment, brain drain and urban decay within the city. In 1974, a Free Industrial Zone was developed outside the city which resulted in reducing urban population as residents moved towards newer suburban townships  and hundreds of shophouses and whole streets were destroyed which exacerbated the hollowing out of George Town.  

Further in 2001, the Rent Control Act was repealed, worsening the depopulation of the city's historical core and leaving colonial-era buildings in disrepair. In response, George Town's civil societies gathered public support for the conservation of historic buildings, and to restore the city to its former glory. Following subsequent heritage conservation efforts, a portion of the city center was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008. 

China Town Area

The state government also took an inclusive approach to heritage conservation and sustainable urban development, while pursuing economic diversification at the same time.

However, as I walked around I did notice that the buildings are worn out and could do with more renovation and coatings of paint especially the China town area. Due to the sea and heavy tropical rains, the buildings deteriorate faster and therefore need more maintenance. The British Colonial buildings are well maintained though. Later as I compared it to Melaka which is much better managed, I felt more can be done by the Government to preserve this heritage town.  

The City

Little India

George Town has a mix of many cultures including Peranakan, Chinese, Indian, Malay and Eurasians and this has made it into a melting pot both culturally and in the gastronomic scene. Chinese and Indian temples jostle with Mosques and some of the best food can be found here, both street food and Michelin star restaurants. Predominantly it is a Chinese city with the Chinese forming more than half of the population. 

The entire Town is built in a grid like formation with specific areas for different communities like China Town, Little India and the Administrative area. I stayed in a hotel called LiLi Stay Lebuh Melayu on Melayu road in the Heritage area and a short walk to the China Town area.

Street Art

Street Art

Penang is famous for its street arts and wall murals. Many of them are iconic and painted by Ernest Zacharevic, who is a local based artist. His art often features children in playful, everyday scenes and it blends with the surroundings, sometimes incorporating real objects like a bicycle or a motorbike

Food and Culture

Must eat foods in George Town includes char kway teow, asam laksa and nasi kandar. There are many street food and fine dining restaurants. The 2025 edition of the Michelin Guide features 63 eateries throughout the city. 

Clans and Secret Societies

Penang’s early Chinese immigrants found strength by forming clan associations with members of extended family sharing a common surname. “Kongsi” or clan houses were established as a place to honor ancestral spirits, provided welfare and education for members as well as promoting and strengthening business interests. 

Certain Kongsi welded considerable influence in Penang’s early history, often controlling somewhat shady businesses, essentially the Triads of the day. Hokkien dominated Ghee Hin (Kian Tek) and Hakka dominated Hai San (Tua Pek Kong) were two prominent societies. 

Chinese secret societies have in common the swearing of an oath to join, strict rules, a family relationship among members, the duty of mutual help, a hierarchy of functions, and hereditary membership within families.

Kongsi Building of Lee

Over time, a stronger colonial government and police force gradually disarmed the kongsis. In a symbolic move, the British renamed Larut town Taiping, which in Mandarin means everlasting peace. This peace transformed the former secret societies into more than 10,000 local clan associations today that focus on social activities, community welfare and cultural traditions. These are largely grouped around different Chinese dialects, namely Cantonese, Hokkien, Teochew, Hainan, Hakka, Kwangsi and Sanjiang.

Kongsis now face a modern-day threat: how to stay relevant and draw the next generation of volunteers to keep their traditions alive. The movement of youth to larger cities and overseas is one reason why clan associations in smaller towns are struggling with youth participation. Also, before Malaysia gained independence in 1957, clan associations played larger roles in the community by acting as job recruitment centers, for example, or operating Chinese vernacular schools. Such roles have now been largely taken over by the federal government. As a result, these associations had to shift focus, with some pivoting to business, politics and even sports.

Notable Sights

The Goddess of Mercy Temple 

Goddess of Mercy Temple

This is a Mahayana Buddhist temple and was built in 1728, making it the oldest Buddhist temple in the state. The temple is dedicated to the Buddhist Bodhisattva of Mercy, Guan Yin.  The Goddess Guanyin is regarded as a manifestation of the Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara and is associated strongly with fertility rites. She is also the goddess to whom people pray for mercy in times of distress. 

This temple also served as the mediator looking after the spiritual and secular needs of the rival Cantonese and Hokkien communities. The temple follows the Hokkien architecture style with its curving roof ridges topped with prancing dragons.

In 1867, the Cantonese-dominated Hai San secret society fought against its Hokkien rival, the Ghee Hin secret society. This sparked the ten-day Penang Riots, and together with the Larut Wars in the neighbouring Sultanate of Perak, it highlighted the temple's failure in its role to mediate between the Hokkiens and the Cantonese. The Penang Chinese Town Hall was then established by Penang's Chinese merchants in 1881 to take over the economic and social functions of the Kong Hock Keong, as well as to settle disputes between the Hokkiens and the Cantonese. A video walkthrough of the temple can be seen here Goddess of Mercy Temple

Tua Pek Kong Temple

Cleaning Tua Pek Kong 

This is the second oldest Chinese temple in George Town, established in 1810 and has been beautifully restored. Tua Pek Kong is a Taoist deity in Peranakan folk religion practiced by ethnic Chinese in Malaysia, Singapore, and parts of Indonesia and is referred as the "God of Prosperity". 

Adjacent to it are three Cantonese style Kongsi (Chinese companies) temples. The unusual and prominent gables represent the element of fire and fish roof adornments is a symbol of abundance favored by the Cantonese rather than the more commonly sighted dragons. In the middle is the War Emperor's temple, Guan Gong (also called Kwan Kong).

Yap Kongsi Clan Temple

Elaborate pillar carving

Built by the Yap clan, one of Penang's oldest and most prominent Hokkien clans in the late 19th century, this tiny but beautiful temple is dedicated to the Chinese god of prosperity. It was formerly the base of the Hai San secret society run by the Straits Chinese. The temple has elaborate carvings, intricate ceramic tile work, and vibrant roof decorations, blending elements of Art Deco with the distinct Straits Chinese style. Blue dragons, a green roof, and walls decorated with pearls can be seen. Three porcelain figures are present at the top the roof, symbolizing luck, wealth, and health—a motif replicated in apartments and eateries throughout the city.

Clan Houses - The Khoo Kongsi

Prayer Building of Khoo Kongsi 

The Hokkien Kongsi in Penang, Malaysia, are made up of several clans, including the Khoo, Cheah, Yeoh, Lim, and Tan Kongsi. 

The Khoo Kongsi (meant for those who had Khoo as their Surname) is the jewel in the crown of Penang’s clan houses and has an elaborate and highly ornamented architecture. It is the most opulent and most ostentatious clan temple building in Penang, and possibly anywhere outside mainland China.

The temple complex has a prayer pavilion,  a traditional theatre and the late 19th century rowhouses for clan members spread around a granite-paved square. The interiors as well as exterior of the prayer building is exquisite and its worth spending some time going through the detailed carvings and paintings. There is an attached museum with details of the Khoo Kongsi origins and history and an art gallery also. All in all I spent a few hours going through the details.  A detailed video can be seen here for those who are interested Khoo Kongsi Walk Through

Other than the Khoo Kongsi, there are multiple Clan temples and Guild Halls across China Town.

 Masjid Kapitan Keling

Masjid Kapitan Keling

This is a Mosque named after an Indian Moslem merchant, the "Kapitan Kling" (headman). It has a single minaret built in Indian-Muslim style around 1800. "Keling" is a Malay term for people of Indian origin. The "Kapitan" was a representative of the Indian community, like the "Kapitan Cina" for the Chinese community. 

Interestingly, I found that Keling is derived from Kalinga, the ancient Kingdom from Odisha and is used to denote Indian origin people across South East Asia. Prior to the introduction of the English word "India", Keling and Jambu Dwipa were used to refer to the country in the Malay and Indonesian. Originally a neutral term, since the mid-20th century it has been considered derogatory and an ethnic slur.

Esplanade and Clock Tower 

Clock Tower

The evenings are a good time to walk along the seaside promenade and the Esplanade where Captain Francis Light, the founder of George Town, first landed on 17 July 1786.  Nearby is the City Hall, Fort Cornwallis and the Clock Tower. I spent a pleasant evening taking on the sights. I also visited the Penang State Art Gallery where there are some nice paintings of Malaysian and Foreign artists. The gallery manager not used to too many visitors was very happy to see me and talked about all the places I should visit in Penang Island.  

Built in 1897, The Victoria Memorial Clock Tower was erected in commemoration of Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee by the rich Chinese towkay, Cheah Chin Gok. It is 60 feet tall, one foot for every year of her reign. 

A few days in Georgetown and it was time for me to head out again. This time it would be a long journey south to the straits of Malacca and the state of Johor bordering Singapore.  

 

  

Ipoh and Taiping - Chinese Tin Mining Towns

While I'm a city guy, its the smaller towns that brings out the spirit and essence of any country and I love visiting them when I'm travelling. Whether it is Chiang Rai in Thailand, Malang in Indonesia, Thakek in Laos or Kampot and Kep in Cambodia. In Malaysia, it is Ipoh and Taiping that brought out an unique flavor of the Chinese community in Malaysia.

Ipoh

Ipoh is a fascinating erstwhile Chinese Tin Mining city with colonial-era architecture and crumbling Chinese mansions and a well maintained old town. It has managed to retain its character as the old buildings have not been taken down and reminded me of walking through Kolkata (though of course with zero honking, well marked lanes, no pollution and 1/10th the population density).  

Street art and Murals can be seen in various areas and the riverside is a nice and pleasant walk. The old town has many trendy cafes and restaurants sharing space with many Chinese bakeries and traditional food shops that are part of the city’s rich culinary heritage. Freshly baked Ipoh-style Chinese pastries, breads, snacks and other traditional delicacies can be bought in these places. 

Many of the street art murals are a creation of Ernest Zacharevic, a Lithuanian artist based out of Penang and considered as the Banksy of Malaysia. His signature street installations combine real objects with painted figures. 

Salted Egg Meat Floss Biscuit

Must try Chinese pastries are the Kaya puffs which are a sweet flaky local pastry filled with creamy rich kaya coconut jam baked to perfection. There are two types of coconut jam, the Pandan Kaya which is green in colour because of the pandan extract used, and the Hainanese Kaya which is brownish in colour because of the palm sugar caramelised in the jam. I packed up 10 of these for the next few days from YG Homemade biscuits .The other thing to try is meat floss with salted egg and lotus paste biscuit. It's a biscuit that combines sweet pandan lotus paste with savory meat floss and salted egg yolk. 

Bean Sprouts Chicken

Food to try is the Bean Sprouts Chicken, Ipoh's most well known dish. It consists of poached or steamed chicken accompanied with a plate of blanched locally grown bean sprouts in a simple dressing of soy sauce and sesame oil. The crunchy and stout texture of Ipoh-grown bean sprouts is attributed to the mineral-rich properties of local water supplies. The dish is usually served with hor fun noodles in a chicken broth, or plain rice.

Ipoh was the place where I also got to know of the Perenakan culture (see culture section in my blog) and Kopitams. A kopitiam (The word kopi is an Indonesian and Malay term for coffee and tiam is the Hokkien/Hakka term for shop) is a type of coffee shop mostly found in parts of South east Asia traditionally operated by the Chinese communities of these countries. Traditional kopitiam menus typically feature simple offerings: a variety of foods based on egg, toast, kaya, plus coffee, tea, Horlicks and Milo while modern kopitiams typically feature multiple food stalls that offer a wider range of foods. White coffee is popular in Ipoh and originated there. It is a light roasted coffee brewed with sweetened condensed milk. 

Taiping

Taiping Lake Gardens

Taiping is another erstwhile tin mining town about 50 Kms North West of Ipoh and South East of Georgetown. Located at the foothills west of the Bintang Mountains, it receives a lot of rainfall and is the wettest town in peninsular Malaysia.  This rainfall has led to fertile rain trees in the Taiping Lake Gardens, which is the main attraction of the town.

Taiping developed quickly in the 19th century when tin was discovered. The mines attracted large numbers of Chinese settlers. There were numerous feuds between two groups of Chinese immigrants,  Hakka and Cantonese and their secret societies and finally in the early 1870s, the British intervened and assumed control of the town. To symbolize the peace between these two groups, the town was renamed Taiping which in Hakka means eternal peace. 

Rain Trees

Indeed, it is now a very peaceful town. The Taiping lake gardens is a wonderful place to have a walk in the mornings and evenings. Around 160 acres, it is a public park built on an abandoned tin mine with scenic lakes and parks and Angsana and Rain trees.

Interestingly, this is what I found out about rain trees. The leaflets are light-sensitive and fold together on rainy or cloudy days allowing rain to fall through the canopy to the ground below. Thus, the grass is often much greener under a rain tree than the surrounding grass.  Being light-sensitive, the leaflets also fold together from dusk to dawn.

Today, Taiping attracts middle class tourists, mainly from China. There are very few western tourists and there are no backpackers who skip it for George Town. Accommodations mainly cater for middle class families.

Museum

I went for both Morning and Evening walks along the Lake Gardens. The second day, I also went to see the Perak Taiping Museum which showcases the culture and natural history of Malaysia. The exhibits were impeccably displayed and the 1st floor which had a beautiful wooden floor had an impressive display of the culture and artefacts of Orang Asli, the indigenous tribes of Malaysia. The ground floor had a great collection of the birds and animals of Malaysia.  

Indian Grave in the War Cemetery

It poured heavily in the afternoon and I took a cab to the hotel when the rain reduced. To my surprise there was absolutely no flooding in the city or traffic jams, two perennial problems back in Bengaluru where any rain of this volume would put natural life out of gear.

The next day after my morning walk, I visited the war cemetery which is maintained by the Commonwealth Grave Commission. In one side It had names of Indians and on the other, names of Britishers who lost their lives against the Japanese during WWII retreat of the British as the Japanese advanced. Most Indians are of course not aware that these graves exist. History is forgotten quickly as we go on the business of living. 

Malaysia - Economy, Culture and Food

Economy

Malaysia is an upper middle income country and has a GDP per Capita of $12000 (5 times that of India, 2,5 times of Indonesia and 1.7 times Thailand). This is visible in the infrastructure which is world class and in their cities which are well managed. Accommodation and activities are costlier than Thailand and Indonesia though food costs are almost similar. The population density is low and large sections of population own cars. 

Its mostly a formal economy and credit cards were accepted everywhere unlike in neighboring Thailand and Indonesia. VAT is one of the lowest in the region at 10%, same as Indonesia (compared to 18% in India and 7% in Thailand.)

Government health expenditure is at 10% (comparable to Indonesia and Thailand which are around 12% and three times that of of India). It has an advantage in reduced defense expenditure similar to Indonesia and Thailand (50% less compared to India and Vietnam). Like Thailand, its an open economy with high % of both imports and exports (unlike India and Indonesia which are now opening up)  

Approximately 15% of the Malaysian workforce is made up of foreign workers who are employed in low-skilled jobs. A large portion of these foreign workers come from neighboring countries like Indonesia, Bangladesh, Nepal, and the Philippines. I noticed a lot of Bangladeshi labor both in KL and Penang in the hotels and for building work.  

Time zone is GMT +8 compared to GMT +7 is countries which are further East like Indonesia and Vietnam. Ideally it should have been the same. Daybreak is therefore early and the sun sets are late, something I needed to get used to compared to other countries.

Society

One thing which struck me and was starkly evident coming from India was that Malaysia was the cleanest country that I have ever seen in Asia. Civic sense is very high, there is no honking and noise anywhere and garbage disposal is very efficient. There are no street dogs making it safe to walk around without any hitches. However, I did notice that public toilets are not as clean as in Indonesia or Thailand. 

Ethnic Malay

Ethnically, Malaysia is a diverse society with Malays constituting 58%, other indigenous people (includes Peninsular Malaysia, Sabah and Sarawak) constituting 12% of the population, Chinese (mainly Buddhist but some are Christian or Muslim) who are 23% of the population and Indians (predominantly Hindu but some are Muslim, Christian, or Sikh) who are 7% of the population. Together the Malays and indigenous people are referred to as Bumiputera or original son of soil. 

Traditionally there has been friction between these groups with Chinese and Hindus richer and predominant in industry and trade (rubber, tin mining, commercial shops etc.) and Malays who are poorer engaged mainly in agriculture. There is reservation of the Malay's in Government jobs to reduce the divide. In fact Singapore was spun out of Malaysia since it was predominantly Chinese and would upset the balance of the local Malays in the new country of Malaysia.

Ethnic Chinese

As far as religion is concerned, 66% of the population follow mainly Sunni Islam, 19%  are Buddhists, 9% of the population follow Christianity and 6% of the population are Hindus. Malaysia is constitutionally a secular State with Islam as the official religion and is more conservative than neighboring Indonesia (where Islam is not an official religion and instead the country follows "Unity in Diversity" model and philosophy of Pancasila in spite of Muslims being a majority). 

Muslim women mostly wear the Tudung (Hijab) and Intermarriages between Muslim and Chinese or Indians are less due to the religious and social differences. 

Malaysia has invested a lot in human capital. Education  is around 20% of Government expenses (compared to 15% in India and Indonesia and 2.6% in Thailand). English and Malay are taught in schools and I found the population generally speaking excellent English talking slowly and clearly. 

Culture

Malaysia is a cultural hotspot with Malay, Chinese and Indian influences. 

Immigrants from the southern provinces of China arrived in the region between the 14th and 17th centuries. Intermarriage between these Chinese settlers and their Malay, Thai, Javanese, or other predecessors in the region contributed to the emergence of a distinctive hybrid culture. They are called Peranakans which is a Malay word meaning "Born of" (there are also Indian Hindu Peranakans called Chettys, Jawi Peranakans who are Malay-speaking Muslims of mixed Indian and Malay ancestry and Kristang or Eurasian Peranakans who are descendents of Portuguese and Malay. Most of them have been assimilated into Malaysian society)

However, most Malaysian Chinese are descendants of Southern Chinese immigrants who arrived in Malaysia between the early 19th and the mid-20th centuries when British policy encouraged young Chinese men to work in tin mines in Malaysia.

Indians are mainly Tamilians who were brought by the British from India and Sri Lanka to work in rubber plantations and tea estates. 

Chinese Peranakans

In Malaysia, the Chinese Peranakan community is commonly known as “Baba Nyonya” – “Baba” is the term for men while “Nyonya” is used for women – which refers to the descendants of merchants from China who came to Malacca and married local women in the 15th century.

Chinese Peranakan

Though most Asian families are known to be patriarchal, the Peranakan households are headed by the women. The head of a typical Peranakan family is usually the grandmother, who is known as the “Bibik”. 

Widely known as “Nyonya Cuisine”, Peranakan dishes are considered as one of the earliest fusion dishes in Southeast Asia as it is the combination of Chinese ingredients with distinctive Malay spices such as pandan leaves, cincaluk (shrimp paste), star anise, curry leaves, and candlenut. There are regional variations in Nyonya cooking: dishes from in Penang possess Thai influences, such as more liberal use of tamarind, while dishes from Singapore and Malacca show a greater Indonesian influence, such as the use of coconut milk. Some of the most popular Nyonya food include Laksa, Chicken Kapitan, Pongteh, and Ang Ku Kue.

There is one very distinct difference between the Peranakan language spoken in the south (Malacca and Singapore) as compared to that of the north (Penang). In the south, Malay is spoken with very few Hokkien words whereas in the north, it’s the other way around.

Politics

Malaysia has a multi-party system and generally a form of "consociationalism" whereby communal interests are resolved in the framework of a grand coalition. The equation for religious and racial harmony is fragile which stems largely from the identification of religion with race coupled with the political primacy of the Malay people (called "Ketuanan Melayu" which is special position and rights for Malays) colliding with the aspiration of other races for complete equality. Unlike some countries such as Thailand or Indonesia, the armed forces are not prominent in politics (maybe a legacy from the British)

Food

The variety of food is highly divergent similar to Indonesia due to the mix of 3 cultures - Malay, Chinese and Indian. The main categories of Malaysian food are:

Malay Cuisine

Malay cuisine is characterized by the use of herbs, spices, and coconut milk. It is aromatic and flavorful. Some popular Malay dishes are

• 

  Nasi Lemak

  Nasi Lemak: Rice cooked in coconut milk, served with sambal, fried anchovies, peanuts, and a hard-boiled egg
• Rendang: Slow-cooked meat in coconut milk and spices
• Satay: Skewered and grilled meat, typically served with a peanut sauce
• Mee Goreng: Stir-fried noodles with vegetables, meat, and a tangy sauce .
• Nasi Goreng: Fried rice with a variety of toppings, often served with a fried egg
• Rojak: A salad made with fruits, vegetables, and deep-fried dough, tossed in a tangy and spicy peanut sauce

Chinese Cuisine

Lor Mee

Chinese community cuisine features ingredients such as soy sauce, ginger, and garlic. Popular dishes are

• Char Kuey Teow: Flat rice noodles stir-fried with eggs, prawns, cockles, and bean sprouts .
• Hainanese Chicken Rice: Poached chicken served with fragrant rice cooked in chicke
  n fat, paired with a tangy chili sauce .
• Hokkien Mee: Thick yellow noodles stir-fried in a savory dark soy sauce with pork, prawns, and squid. Lor Mee is similar but more thick.
• Curry Mee: A bowl of thin yellow noodles mixed with bihun in a spicy curry soup enriched with coconut milk, and topped with tofu puffs, prawns, cuttlefish, chicken, long beans, cockles and mint leaves, with sambal served on the side. It is often referred to as curry laksa.

Indian Cuisine

Roti Canai

Indian cuisine in Malaysia is characterized by the use of spices like cumin, coriander, and turmeric. Popular dishes are:

• Roti Canai: A flaky, crispy flatbread often served with lentil curry or sugar
• Murtabak: A stuffed pancake filled with egg, onion, spices, and ground beef, served with lentil curry
• Nasi Biryani: A fragrant rice dish cooked with spices and meat, often served with raita

Peranakan Cuisine

Asam Laksa

Peranakan cuisine is a fusion of Malay and Chinese influences. Popular dishes include:

• Laksa: A spicy noodle soup with fish or prawns, available in variants like Asam Laksa and Curry Laksa
• Otak-Otak: A fish cake made from fish paste and spices, wrapped in banana leaves and grilled
• Ayam Buah Keluak: Chicken cooked with black nuts (buah keluak) in a rich, spicy sauce

Desserts and Snacks

Cendol

Malaysian desserts and snacks are a delightful mix of sweet and savory flavors:

• Ais Kacang/Ice Kacang: Shaved ice with red beans, palm seeds, sweet corn, peanuts, and various syrups
• Cendol - Iced sweet dessert that contains pandan-flavoured green rice flour jelly, coconut milk, and palm sugar syrup.  Additional toppings might be added including diced jackfruit, sweetened red azuki beans or durian.
• Pisang Goreng: Deep-fried bananas coated in a light batter, crispy on the outside and soft on the inside .
• Popiah: Fresh spring rolls filled with vegetables, meats, or seafood, wrapped in a thin, soft pancake

Cameron Highlands - Tea Estates and Hikes

Cameron Highlands

Cameron Highlands was established by the British for planting tea and is named after William Cameron, a Scottish explorer and geologist. The main town where most of the hotels are is called Tanah Rata and this is where most of the buses terminate. 

After reaching here, I walked to The Rustique guesthouse which was a few minutes away and Norman who manages the place, warmly welcomed me and took me around the place. 

Tanah Rata

Tanah Rata is a small quaint town with a center filled with restaurants and accomodations of all types. The food options are varied and ranges from Japanese, Korean, Indian, western and local cuisines. I marked out the restaurants and cafes and spent the evening strolling around the Center. 

Trail 10 Hike

The next day, I started off at around 8 AM on a trek called Trial 10. The other major trekking were closed due to the rains and this didn't require a specific guide to go along. The route involved going up to the hill called Gunung Jasar and then descending from the other side through Trail 6. The path is treacherous and muddy especially the descent and requires a sturdy set of hiking shoes. Not to be attempted during rains and not without good shoes. I was lucky not to get any rains during my trek. 

During my descent, I met 2 ladies going down, it was the same Mother-daughter duo from Taman Negara! In all my travels, this is something that I experienced once a while, as most travelers have similar routes within a country. The end of trail 6 is an inner road that leads to the Bharath Tea Factory and the other to the main road from where I hitchhiked back to the town.

Indian Influence

I noticed quite a number of Indians and Indian restaurants in Tanah Rata. I was told by Norman that when the British established the tea estates, they had got Indians from India and Sri Lanka and therefore there are more Indians here. 

South Indian movies are quite popular. Norman comes from the East Coast and his name is an amalgamation of his mothers and fathers names - Nor and Man. He said that in the 80s there used to be Tamil Movies on Friday and Hindustani (Hindi) movies on Saturdays which he and his Grandmother used to watch. His Grandmother is also a Lata Mangeshkar fan. Sharukh Khan and Salman are as usual well known. So is Rajnikanth, because of the Tamil population.

While cultural influence of India comes from movies, Indonesia has a large influence on music. Their music is modern and appealing to the young. The variety of musicians and genres in Indonesia is large and Bahasa is quite similar to Malay language. 

After a few days in Tanah Rata, it was time for me to head out North West to the Tin Mining town of Ipoh.

Taman Negara - Oldest Rain forests in the world

National Park

Stop over at Jerantut

Taman Negara means National Park. Located towards Eastern Malaysia, it is one of the oldest rain forests in the world. I decided to visit there first before moving to the Islands to the East of the country. 

There was no clear information on how to reach Taman Negara from KL. I then chanced upon a direct connect service from NKS HOTEL & TRAVEL in 12Go which connects from KL to Jerantut and from there to Taman Negara. As luck would have it, I chose a ticket which included a 2 1/2 hour boat ride form Jerantut instead of bus which was one of the highlights of the trip. 

A Boat Journey

Boat Ride to Kuala Tahan

When I left KL, I was told that the East coast Islands were out of bounds now due to the Monsoon, so my plan was now to travel to the Central Highlands after the National Park. On reaching Jerantut, we were transferred onto a motor boat. We were a group of 9 people (3 from Spain, 2 from England, 2 Malays and another person apart from me) and it was a pleasant ride skimming through the water with slight drizzles at various times. The sky was overcast and I realized that the North East Monsoon season was truly on. 

The town we stayed in is called Kuala Tahan and is on the other side of the river from the Park. On disembarking, I walked up to the Hana Guesthouse and checked in into a nice big room with a balcony overlooking a forest area and the back of the local residential school.

Jungle Trek

Keeping the monkeys away

The next day, I joined a group for a full day trek in the rain forest. It was organized by NKS and we gathered together at 10 AM before taking the boat to the National Park office across the river. After registering at the Park office, we set out on the trek. We were a mix of people mostly from Europe - a mother and daughter from Netherlands, a Moroccan and Algerian now staying in France and Belgium, 3 people from Spain, a  solo traveler from Germany etc. Nearby the Park office, there was a resort in the rain forest which we had to cross before starting the trek. Interestingly,  the cleaning staff had stuffed tigers kept all around the resort which was to keep away the monkeys who would otherwise raid the villas and kitchens!

The trek was led by two guides, one of them from a tribe in Borneo. They were extremely knowledgeable about the forests and explained to us all the different trees and plants, their uses by the indigenous tribes, how to survive in the forests, get water from the trees, make a fire etc. It was great fun. 

The Group navigating the slope

The trek was an easy trek, slippery in places, crossing a few streams till we reached the waterfall. Rains kept falling now and then. There is a 2 day one night trek which is very popular but was closed due to the Monsoon season. On our way back, we visited a Batek village which is an indigenous tribe that lives in the fringes of the rain forest. Batek is one of the sub-ethnic groupings of Negrito which is in turn one of the 3 main ethnic groups of the Orang Asli (Original Inhabitants) community in Malaysia. One of the tribe members demonstrated how they make a fire using forest resources and how they hunt monkeys, squirrels using poisoned darts using a blow pipe. We all took turns in blowing the darts and checking our accuracy. 

Finally we boarded a motorboat and went down the river reaching Kuala Tahan. The river was muddy and in spate and the boats playfully jostled each other, so by the time we arrived we were all dripping wet. It was good fun though and all of us tired, quickly went back to our accommodation for a hot bath and a well deserved rest.

Fish and Rice for Lunch

Kuala Tahan itself was full of guesthouses and a few hotels. It had a small market area, a few restaurants, a school and residential quarters for school students. It is a  great place to stay and relax after coming back from trips to the Forests on the other side of the river. I had some lovely homemade food every day in these small hamlets. 

The next day was a rest day for me catching up on work and the day after I left for the Cameron Highlands via Jerantut through NKS, the same travel agency. The bus to Jerantut took an hour compared to the 2 1/2 hours it took by boat.

Trek Video

Kuala Lumpur - The sparkling City

The Metropolis

Petronas Twin Towers

Kuala Lumpur is one of the best cities I have seen in South East Asia.  A bustling metropolis, large and well spread, it has a plethora of transport options including MRT, LRT, Mono Rail and buses. The roads are wide and well maintained with side walks. 

Downtown

The downtown is very well developed with the Twin Towers as the fulcrum to many skyscrapers all around.  The Old town and China Towns are clean and the entire city is completely garbage free. 

KL didn't have the massive traffic jams of Bangkok, nor the disparity of Jakarta. The Bangkok vibe is of course different with people from all over the world residing there. Jakarta has a pulsating energy which is also distinct. KL has a mix of great vibe especially in the downtown areas and quiet efficiency all around.  

Central Jakarta

The best place to stay is in the Bukut Bintang area near the Twin Towers. There are world class restaurants, flashy Malls, well drawn roads and walkways and access to all Mass transport options. In the evenings, there are street performances, night clubs and many entertainment options. Money changers are aplenty.

I chanced upon a take way Chinese Muslim Roti joint called Restoran Mon Chinese Beef Roti. It makes the best hot beef and chicken rotis and is to die for.  

Museums

Over the next few days, visited two museums which are worth going. One is the Islamic arts museum and the other, the National Textile Museum. Enroute to the Islamic Arts Museum is the National Mosque of Malaysia, a modern edifice. 

River of Life Project

River of Life Project

Kuala Lumpur literally means “muddy confluence” in Malay since it was formed in the confluence of the Klang and Gombak rivers. The tin mining industries in Kuala Lumpur were in their boom years in 1878-1879 when the price of tin rose rapidly internationally. At the time, the east bank of the Klang River became the main trade center for the region. The town was primarily a trade center and a link between the mines and the port of Klang.

When European officials and colonial government offices moved from Klang to Kuala Lumpur in 1880, the residential and functions divisions were clearly divided into three main communities; the western portion for the Europeans, the triangle land for the Malays, and the east bank of the Klang River for the Chinese 

In 2011, the Kuala Lumpur city government launched the "River of Life" project. This project transformed around 10 kilometers of the two rivers waterfront and the historic river intersection and surrounding areas have dramatically changed into a well designed walk. Many of the buildings have been restored, attractive sidewalks and paths have been made and a people-only bridge has been added to make it pleasant to get from the rail station to the historic buildings on foot. 

In this walk, the notable places to visit are Masjid Jamek, the National Textile Museum and Independence Square.  

Batu Caves

Batu Caves (Batu in Malay means "Rock") is a series of limestone caves on a hill about 13 km north of Kuala Lumpur. The cave complex contains many Hindu temples including a shrine dedicated to the deity Murugan. The complex has one of the largest Murugan statues in the world, which is 43 m high. 

The way up to the cave is through 272 steps. Inside the cave there are a few shrines. As I went up and down the hill, I saw numerous long-tailed macaque monkeys all round the area. There were used to the humans and were always on the lookout for food, so one has to be careful taking any food up. 

The best way to visit Batu caves is to take the KTM line. It is the last stop and the entry to the temple and steps to the cave is just outside the station.

After a few days in KL, I set out for Taman Negara which is the Malaysian National Park to the North East. These contain the oldest rainforests in the world and a great place to experience a tropical rain forest.